Yes, it seems that in this blog there is much to tell -- the first that there are some new photos from April on my photo site (link at right) of our retreat in Lima and a recent local soccer game with friends.
RETREAT
April 18-23 Emily, Nicole and I traveled to Carabayillo (section of north Lima) for a retreat at the small but peaceful Oscar Romero center -- which also served up some great, healthy food and snacks for us. We enjoyed the amenities of running water (more on that in a moment) and Sister Lourdes, a Peruvian Incarnate Word Sister, accompanied us during the four days, though she could only be there in the evenings due to her university studies and other commitments. The overall theme was missionary spirituality, broken up into the sections such as Spirituality of: being sent, frontiers, margins, provisionality, Pascal Mystery. Each of which was introduced by a reflection guide with readings, scripture references, and questions. We completed a couple each day by taking a couple hours to read, journal, etc, and then we´d gather for sharing. Particularly, I found reflection on the provisionality of mission work -- I am here for a short time to share what I can, to leave footprints -- particularly helpful. Also, I think the time for the three of us together has helped us become closer and, for me at least, to share more openly and often when we are together. There was a large group at the center for the weekend with us, but then the second half of the retreat it was just us and the staff. It was a very positive experience, and we had some nice evening time on the roof where we had a view of north Lima through the haze. In addition, I had a good chunks of time to read a new book, 1491, that I recommend as a portrait of life in North and South America before Columbus arrived. Especially interesting to me were sections on pre-Inca Peru and the Maya of central America.
DOMESTIC LIFE
We returned from the retreat to find that, not too surprisingly, our water pump was still not working and therefore we had no water (and we just changed our shower heads!). However, our refrigerator had also died, blowing purely hot air in Nicole´s face -- along with a rather unpleasant smell. In a few days we had the fridge fixed (mostly -- still doesn´t freeze water) but our pump, despite some attention by our landlord Hector and his construction employee Eduardo, has managed to pump only one tankful of water up to the cistern since we got home a couple weeks ago. We are learning to manage as many people do here, filling buckets and pop bottles in the morning and evening when the city water flows (a couple hours each time) and then using the water during the day for dishes, ´showers´, and cooking. As a result of the refrigerator and water problems, we have eaten lunch out three times at neighborhood restaurants (cheap, $1-$1.50 for soup and main course).
I´m nearly out of time for the moment, so will have to continue this blog entry in a couple days. Tomorrow we three are making a trip a couple hours into the mountains to the small town of Pariacoto (where I went for the Confirmation retreat in November), which will be celebrating it´s patron saint fiesta for three days (Emily and Nicole also have the day off -- Day of the Worker, a national holiday). I´ll try to write again on Friday or Saturday.
God bless!
Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Summer is Over
Note: more photos (Good Friday´s Way of the Cross, my mom´s Chimbote photos) are posted for viewing by clicking the link at right.
Yes, the climate has finally changed a bit -- nights and mornings are cooler, mid-day sun isn´t quite as strong, people are starting to wear light sweaters for the cool evening breezes, and the morning running crowd has dwindled to the truly dedicated (addicted?). A downside is that cold showers are not quite as welcome, so yesterday Oscar (our periodic handyman) and I put in a couple new electric shower heads that work great. Actually, the upstairs one, because of less water pressure, is actually too hot with no way to change the setting -- so we´ll wait until the downstairs head goes bad and then switch. While talking about household items, I can mention that we got an unexpected bonus a few days ago when I was actually home when the trash truck passed by, on Sunday afternoon at 1:00 pm. He didn´t ring his obnoxious horn, but I was with a couple friends at the door so we all made a couple of trips to carry the 15-20 small bags (about 2 months worth) to throw into the back of the truck. The driver was not around and the truck appeared to be stopped for some reason (maybe broken down, or maybe the driver is a friend of our neighbors), but we didn´t ask any questions. As luck would have it, the truck passed again the very next day. As Nicole commented, we are learning this year to appreciate the little things.
I was sick over the weekend with a nasty head cold, and am still fighting the rear guard of a sore throat and occasional nose-blowing. I have indeed been sick this year much more than last -- my mom thinks its the dust and pollution, and she may very well be correct. People here tell me that it´s the ´cold´ weather and drinking cold drinks, a notoriously bad habit that we Americans have. So, I´m trying to breathe as little as possible and drink lots of tea :).
Nicole, Emily and I leave in two days, on Friday, for our yearly IWM retreat -- led by Sister Lourdes, a Peruvian IW sister. We´ll be at a retreat center in Lima through Wednesday, and I am honestly looking forward to the time away to reflect a bit on my time here so far and to discern priorities for the months ahead. Might be the smallest retreat group I´ve ever been a part of.
Our second week of youth basketball class built on the first -- we had eight girls and eight boys show up. I again took the girls and we worked on some fundamentals like passing, dribbling, and layups. The girls, ages 8-13, are a good group and help each other out -- the two youngest cannot yet get the ball up to the basket. A friend Elmer works with the boys during the 1 1/2-hour time period.
Finally, a book recommendation. My mom left Conquest of the Incas, by John Hemminging, when whe visited and I have completely finished the book in the two weeks since. It gives a good rundown of the Conquest and post-conquest issues, events, and personalities, using a lot of first sources from that time period. Anyone with an interest in the historical basis of modern Peru would find it worth their while to pick it up.
It seems there was more to share, but I´m feeling a bit tired and sense I am forgetting something. Nonetheless, I´m heading to daily mass this evening at therefore must sign-off. Have a blessed week!
Yes, the climate has finally changed a bit -- nights and mornings are cooler, mid-day sun isn´t quite as strong, people are starting to wear light sweaters for the cool evening breezes, and the morning running crowd has dwindled to the truly dedicated (addicted?). A downside is that cold showers are not quite as welcome, so yesterday Oscar (our periodic handyman) and I put in a couple new electric shower heads that work great. Actually, the upstairs one, because of less water pressure, is actually too hot with no way to change the setting -- so we´ll wait until the downstairs head goes bad and then switch. While talking about household items, I can mention that we got an unexpected bonus a few days ago when I was actually home when the trash truck passed by, on Sunday afternoon at 1:00 pm. He didn´t ring his obnoxious horn, but I was with a couple friends at the door so we all made a couple of trips to carry the 15-20 small bags (about 2 months worth) to throw into the back of the truck. The driver was not around and the truck appeared to be stopped for some reason (maybe broken down, or maybe the driver is a friend of our neighbors), but we didn´t ask any questions. As luck would have it, the truck passed again the very next day. As Nicole commented, we are learning this year to appreciate the little things.
I was sick over the weekend with a nasty head cold, and am still fighting the rear guard of a sore throat and occasional nose-blowing. I have indeed been sick this year much more than last -- my mom thinks its the dust and pollution, and she may very well be correct. People here tell me that it´s the ´cold´ weather and drinking cold drinks, a notoriously bad habit that we Americans have. So, I´m trying to breathe as little as possible and drink lots of tea :).
Nicole, Emily and I leave in two days, on Friday, for our yearly IWM retreat -- led by Sister Lourdes, a Peruvian IW sister. We´ll be at a retreat center in Lima through Wednesday, and I am honestly looking forward to the time away to reflect a bit on my time here so far and to discern priorities for the months ahead. Might be the smallest retreat group I´ve ever been a part of.
Our second week of youth basketball class built on the first -- we had eight girls and eight boys show up. I again took the girls and we worked on some fundamentals like passing, dribbling, and layups. The girls, ages 8-13, are a good group and help each other out -- the two youngest cannot yet get the ball up to the basket. A friend Elmer works with the boys during the 1 1/2-hour time period.
Finally, a book recommendation. My mom left Conquest of the Incas, by John Hemminging, when whe visited and I have completely finished the book in the two weeks since. It gives a good rundown of the Conquest and post-conquest issues, events, and personalities, using a lot of first sources from that time period. Anyone with an interest in the historical basis of modern Peru would find it worth their while to pick it up.
It seems there was more to share, but I´m feeling a bit tired and sense I am forgetting something. Nonetheless, I´m heading to daily mass this evening at therefore must sign-off. Have a blessed week!
Monday, April 7, 2008
Cuzco and Inca Trail Photos
Just a note to let you know that two new photo albums are now available for viewing by clicking on the link at right; photos of Cuzco and the surrounding Sacred Valley of the Incas and photos of our four-day Inca Trail hike. Enjoy!
Chimbote Re-entry
Some short reflections on life back in Chimbote, just over six months since my arrival here (September 25).
- The experience of being robbed and hit just before leaving definitely affects my mind set when I am out an about. I don`t take my backpack unless absolutely necessary to carry things a short distance, and I am much more suspicious and watchful of the people around me. Friends from the parish have expressed much concern and apologies (feeling responsible for the actions of their compatriots) and have given me numerous pointers for trying to prevent a re-ocurrence. Lenin even took me on a walk around town, identifying places where `chorros` often congregate and which streets/hours are best to avoid. In general, I just feel a bit more nervous and vulnerable than before, which -- if I can cover up my nervousness -- are actually assets in helping me take more precautions. Still, I find myself appreciating the relative safety of most areas of the United States. Nicole, Emily and I have spoken about the difference in the culture here, a seeming lack of conscience -- generalizing of course. Of course the economic struggle of many here is a factor in this, as even in the US crime rates general rise in areas of increased poverty and desperation. Still, there may be other factors that are more difficult to pinpoint that are behind the often encountered mindset that cheating, stealing, or being dishonest is OK as long as it doesn`t harm people you know and you don`t get caught. A lack of consequences surely contributes as well, as the police system is only periodically effective at best, hampered by lack of resources and by reluctance of anyone to get involved by testifying (or helping out) in the case of a robbery for fear of retaliation against their family. For example, during my absence the hospice complex was robbed at gunpoint. An employee called the police from the bathroom, and they had to come in a taxi, eventually apprehending three of the five perpetrators (who were also in a taxi). Now, though, none of the hospice workers who were present are willing to give testimony, so no charges have been made and those who were caught will likely be released. To be sure, the overall effectiveness of our police system in the United States, despite its weaknesses in some areas, helps reinforce a social norm of not stealing. We also think that family training has an even greater role in affecting long term behavior, and I know that such moral training does happen here as well but maybe not as effectively, weakened by factors such as economic hardship. In short, the situation is indeed complex and I don`t have any quick answers about how to improve it. I do feel, though, that it is likely I will be robbed again before I leave, such is the reality of life here. Nearly all the friends I have here have their own stories of being robbed or assaulted, and my chances are only increased by being white and foreign, both associated with having money. I don`t write this to scare my family, those who care for me, or anyone hoping to visit or live here -- but instead to hopefully give a clearer picture of the realities. People here live with more fear and less security than we do (for the most part) in the US, and in assimilating into a culture that has much positive to offer me, I also accept this negative aspect which hopefully helps me to grow in solidarity with my neighbors here.
- A couple more bits of news, much more positive. Yesterday we had our first meeting/practice with boys and girls from the parish who want to be a part of a parish basketball team. Though basketball takes a distant second to the sports of soccer (for boys) and volleyball (for girls), there is still some interest. I am assisting riends here Elmer and Juan Carlos in coordinating and offering this opportunity to both teach basic skills and strategy and to eventually, we hope, form teams that can play games against other parishes and schools in the city. We had six girls and three boys come yesterday, and I had fun leading the girls in dribbling, passing, and lay-up drills. It is also great practice with Spanish basketball vocabulary.
- Secondly, a friend Lucciani came to me today with a proposal to make efforts to change the culture of garbage here, both by initiating a recycling program and by visiting schools to present information on how we can better care for our local environment. Both aspects would be undertaken by youth and young adults of the parish, and though we are just beginning the conversation, there is potencial for a meaningful project.
- Finally, I emerged hopeful from a meeting of our youth leadership group yesterday, now self-named JUMIFRA, Juventùd Misionera Francsicana (Fransiscan Missionary Youth). We are choosing officers from among the members, and have a number of hopes and ideas for the next steps. I was a bit sleepy for the meeting, however, after accepting an invitation of friends from my choir to go dancing at a local discoteca on Saturday night. We left at about 11:45 and I didn`t get back to the house until about 4:00 am (discotecas stay open until about 7:00 am on the weekends). I enjoyed having the experience, but feel a bit old to stay out so late. A nap Sunday afternoon and a good nine hours sleep last night have me back on the road to feeling rested again :).
Thanks for your attention, and God bless.
- The experience of being robbed and hit just before leaving definitely affects my mind set when I am out an about. I don`t take my backpack unless absolutely necessary to carry things a short distance, and I am much more suspicious and watchful of the people around me. Friends from the parish have expressed much concern and apologies (feeling responsible for the actions of their compatriots) and have given me numerous pointers for trying to prevent a re-ocurrence. Lenin even took me on a walk around town, identifying places where `chorros` often congregate and which streets/hours are best to avoid. In general, I just feel a bit more nervous and vulnerable than before, which -- if I can cover up my nervousness -- are actually assets in helping me take more precautions. Still, I find myself appreciating the relative safety of most areas of the United States. Nicole, Emily and I have spoken about the difference in the culture here, a seeming lack of conscience -- generalizing of course. Of course the economic struggle of many here is a factor in this, as even in the US crime rates general rise in areas of increased poverty and desperation. Still, there may be other factors that are more difficult to pinpoint that are behind the often encountered mindset that cheating, stealing, or being dishonest is OK as long as it doesn`t harm people you know and you don`t get caught. A lack of consequences surely contributes as well, as the police system is only periodically effective at best, hampered by lack of resources and by reluctance of anyone to get involved by testifying (or helping out) in the case of a robbery for fear of retaliation against their family. For example, during my absence the hospice complex was robbed at gunpoint. An employee called the police from the bathroom, and they had to come in a taxi, eventually apprehending three of the five perpetrators (who were also in a taxi). Now, though, none of the hospice workers who were present are willing to give testimony, so no charges have been made and those who were caught will likely be released. To be sure, the overall effectiveness of our police system in the United States, despite its weaknesses in some areas, helps reinforce a social norm of not stealing. We also think that family training has an even greater role in affecting long term behavior, and I know that such moral training does happen here as well but maybe not as effectively, weakened by factors such as economic hardship. In short, the situation is indeed complex and I don`t have any quick answers about how to improve it. I do feel, though, that it is likely I will be robbed again before I leave, such is the reality of life here. Nearly all the friends I have here have their own stories of being robbed or assaulted, and my chances are only increased by being white and foreign, both associated with having money. I don`t write this to scare my family, those who care for me, or anyone hoping to visit or live here -- but instead to hopefully give a clearer picture of the realities. People here live with more fear and less security than we do (for the most part) in the US, and in assimilating into a culture that has much positive to offer me, I also accept this negative aspect which hopefully helps me to grow in solidarity with my neighbors here.
- A couple more bits of news, much more positive. Yesterday we had our first meeting/practice with boys and girls from the parish who want to be a part of a parish basketball team. Though basketball takes a distant second to the sports of soccer (for boys) and volleyball (for girls), there is still some interest. I am assisting riends here Elmer and Juan Carlos in coordinating and offering this opportunity to both teach basic skills and strategy and to eventually, we hope, form teams that can play games against other parishes and schools in the city. We had six girls and three boys come yesterday, and I had fun leading the girls in dribbling, passing, and lay-up drills. It is also great practice with Spanish basketball vocabulary.
- Secondly, a friend Lucciani came to me today with a proposal to make efforts to change the culture of garbage here, both by initiating a recycling program and by visiting schools to present information on how we can better care for our local environment. Both aspects would be undertaken by youth and young adults of the parish, and though we are just beginning the conversation, there is potencial for a meaningful project.
- Finally, I emerged hopeful from a meeting of our youth leadership group yesterday, now self-named JUMIFRA, Juventùd Misionera Francsicana (Fransiscan Missionary Youth). We are choosing officers from among the members, and have a number of hopes and ideas for the next steps. I was a bit sleepy for the meeting, however, after accepting an invitation of friends from my choir to go dancing at a local discoteca on Saturday night. We left at about 11:45 and I didn`t get back to the house until about 4:00 am (discotecas stay open until about 7:00 am on the weekends). I enjoyed having the experience, but feel a bit old to stay out so late. A nap Sunday afternoon and a good nine hours sleep last night have me back on the road to feeling rested again :).
Thanks for your attention, and God bless.
Macchu Pichu and the Inca Trail
Hello again faithful readers!
CUZCO
As hinted in my last post, I had the privelege of traveling to Cuzco and Macchu Pichu (one of the seven wonders of the world) the last days of March. When people ask me how it was, my first response is that, compared to Chimbote, the Andes are like a different world. Cuzco is a growing, red-tile roofed city that -- especially in the section we were in -- caters to tourists, the reason that among Peru`s regions it is one of the only ones not in the red. The Plaza de Arma`s is well kept, green and flanked by two colonial churches (the Cathedral and the Jesuit Compania de Jesus church) along with colonades of shops and restaurants. Street vendors offer postcards or their often beautiful artesian crafts every few meters, which at times can grow tiring. Visitors to Cuzco hail from all sorts of places, including the US, Europe, and Australia especially. Our hostel was located on Cuesta San Blas, a narrow stone-paved street near a wall exhibiting some of the fine examples of Inca stonework that managed to survived the Spanish re-construction of the city following the conquest. The masonry is remarkable because of the exact nature in which stones were carved to fit together in an interlocking manner, withstanding even the strongest earthquakes with no mortar. We saw numerous examples of this labor intensive effort during our time in the central Andes. During our three days in Cuzco after flying from Lima, we rested the first (to adjust to the altitude of about 11.000 feet), toured the Sacred Valley the second (the Urubamba River valley and ruins of Pisaq, Ollaytatambo, and church at Chincheros) with an organized tour, and visited city sites such as the Sacsayhuaman fortress and Inca Museum on the third day in between preparing for our Inca Trail hike. Unfortunately, my aunt Janie, weaked by a chest cold that I gave her, came down with progressively worse sorroche, or altitude sickness, and grew increasingly weak. Thankfully, with the assistance of our hostal staff, who called a doctor to visit her, we were able to get her assistance at a local private clinic/hospital on the eve of our departure. At the time Mom and I didn`t know if Janie would be able to meet us Macchu Pichu as planned (taking the train), but it turns out that with oxygen and pressure chamber treatment Janie improved enough to meet us at MP gate on our last hiking day, which we were very grateful for. Janie was even more grateful to finally return to Lima and then SF, appreciating more than ever the rich sea-level air.
THE INCA TRAIL
The Inca Trail trek that Mom and I took, with 13 other trekkers from the US, Ireland, Colombia and Australia, was for me the highlight of the trip. SAS travel provided guides, food, tents, and many thoughtful touches (like a wake-up call each morning that included coca tea in the tent). Details were quite organized, making it a bit hard for me to believe at first that we were actually in Peru:). A team of 22 porters and two cooks carried the gear and most of our personal packs (I and two others carried our own, which I may not do next time out of kindness to my knees) but still we were periodically passed on the trail by the laden porters, going ahead to either set-up and prepare lunch or to set-up the tents and campsite at our evening destination. A few other groups were also on the trail, on which campsites were scattered along the 48 km route that we covered in 3 1/2 days of walking, arriving to MP at about 9:00 am on the fourth day after a 4:00 am wake-up. Especially after the group found out Mom`s age after the second morning introductions, most of the group at some point complemented me on my mom with statements such as `Your mom`s amazing` to which I readily agreed (she was the oldes on the trip, and I was the second oldest). She moved along at a bit of a slower pace, especially during the climbs with their vast number of stone steps, but always made it in -- a guide named Washington took good care of her, accompanying her all the way. On our longest day a couple porters offered to carry her (which she refused), and then a group of four walked with her the last 45 minutes to camp, holding flashlights to guide her in the growing darkness. We did arrive to MP together on the last day, and I am very proud of her and thankful that she had the enthusiasm to undertake this adventure with me.
Another star of the trip were the Andes themselves: grand in scale with towering peakes, various snow-capped mountains with glaciers, and deep green valleys. The quiet was a great change from noisy Chimbote life, even if the altitude made us stop a bit more often on the climbs to catch our breath and let our heart rates subside a bit. The weather was overall quite good -- I enjoyed the cooler climate as a change from the Chimbote summer -- except for a morning of rain on the day we crossed the highest pass (Dead Woman`s Pass -- named for the shape of the ridge and not for any actual event). At the top, more that 13,000 feet in elevation, the rain was a freezing slush and I didn`t stop long to savor the moment before descending the stone steps for an hour and a half to our lunch site where we tried to dry off a bit. Fortunately, the afternoon brought partly sunny skies and a descent to warmer temperatures that dried our shoes and clothes (that weren`t poncho protected) before we reached our evening camp. The route gave a good lead-up to the ruins of Macchu Pichu, as the Inca stone road was punctuated by various smaller ruins along the way which our guide would tell us about. Because of the rugged terrain, very little development has reached this area of the Andes even to this day, so it was not diffucult to imagine oneself a traveler of five centuries ago along the same road. As the rain cleared and we descended into MP on the last morning, I was impressed by the size of the site -- larger than I expected. After a tour of the site, we descended to the tourist town of Aguas Calientes at the mountain´s base for lunch and a short stop at the natural hot springs before catching the train (only way to arrive there) back to Cuzco, celebrating on the way with our fellow hikers by having the Peruvian national drink, a Pisco Sour.
Thanks for reading, and have a great day!
CUZCO
As hinted in my last post, I had the privelege of traveling to Cuzco and Macchu Pichu (one of the seven wonders of the world) the last days of March. When people ask me how it was, my first response is that, compared to Chimbote, the Andes are like a different world. Cuzco is a growing, red-tile roofed city that -- especially in the section we were in -- caters to tourists, the reason that among Peru`s regions it is one of the only ones not in the red. The Plaza de Arma`s is well kept, green and flanked by two colonial churches (the Cathedral and the Jesuit Compania de Jesus church) along with colonades of shops and restaurants. Street vendors offer postcards or their often beautiful artesian crafts every few meters, which at times can grow tiring. Visitors to Cuzco hail from all sorts of places, including the US, Europe, and Australia especially. Our hostel was located on Cuesta San Blas, a narrow stone-paved street near a wall exhibiting some of the fine examples of Inca stonework that managed to survived the Spanish re-construction of the city following the conquest. The masonry is remarkable because of the exact nature in which stones were carved to fit together in an interlocking manner, withstanding even the strongest earthquakes with no mortar. We saw numerous examples of this labor intensive effort during our time in the central Andes. During our three days in Cuzco after flying from Lima, we rested the first (to adjust to the altitude of about 11.000 feet), toured the Sacred Valley the second (the Urubamba River valley and ruins of Pisaq, Ollaytatambo, and church at Chincheros) with an organized tour, and visited city sites such as the Sacsayhuaman fortress and Inca Museum on the third day in between preparing for our Inca Trail hike. Unfortunately, my aunt Janie, weaked by a chest cold that I gave her, came down with progressively worse sorroche, or altitude sickness, and grew increasingly weak. Thankfully, with the assistance of our hostal staff, who called a doctor to visit her, we were able to get her assistance at a local private clinic/hospital on the eve of our departure. At the time Mom and I didn`t know if Janie would be able to meet us Macchu Pichu as planned (taking the train), but it turns out that with oxygen and pressure chamber treatment Janie improved enough to meet us at MP gate on our last hiking day, which we were very grateful for. Janie was even more grateful to finally return to Lima and then SF, appreciating more than ever the rich sea-level air.
THE INCA TRAIL
The Inca Trail trek that Mom and I took, with 13 other trekkers from the US, Ireland, Colombia and Australia, was for me the highlight of the trip. SAS travel provided guides, food, tents, and many thoughtful touches (like a wake-up call each morning that included coca tea in the tent). Details were quite organized, making it a bit hard for me to believe at first that we were actually in Peru:). A team of 22 porters and two cooks carried the gear and most of our personal packs (I and two others carried our own, which I may not do next time out of kindness to my knees) but still we were periodically passed on the trail by the laden porters, going ahead to either set-up and prepare lunch or to set-up the tents and campsite at our evening destination. A few other groups were also on the trail, on which campsites were scattered along the 48 km route that we covered in 3 1/2 days of walking, arriving to MP at about 9:00 am on the fourth day after a 4:00 am wake-up. Especially after the group found out Mom`s age after the second morning introductions, most of the group at some point complemented me on my mom with statements such as `Your mom`s amazing` to which I readily agreed (she was the oldes on the trip, and I was the second oldest). She moved along at a bit of a slower pace, especially during the climbs with their vast number of stone steps, but always made it in -- a guide named Washington took good care of her, accompanying her all the way. On our longest day a couple porters offered to carry her (which she refused), and then a group of four walked with her the last 45 minutes to camp, holding flashlights to guide her in the growing darkness. We did arrive to MP together on the last day, and I am very proud of her and thankful that she had the enthusiasm to undertake this adventure with me.
Another star of the trip were the Andes themselves: grand in scale with towering peakes, various snow-capped mountains with glaciers, and deep green valleys. The quiet was a great change from noisy Chimbote life, even if the altitude made us stop a bit more often on the climbs to catch our breath and let our heart rates subside a bit. The weather was overall quite good -- I enjoyed the cooler climate as a change from the Chimbote summer -- except for a morning of rain on the day we crossed the highest pass (Dead Woman`s Pass -- named for the shape of the ridge and not for any actual event). At the top, more that 13,000 feet in elevation, the rain was a freezing slush and I didn`t stop long to savor the moment before descending the stone steps for an hour and a half to our lunch site where we tried to dry off a bit. Fortunately, the afternoon brought partly sunny skies and a descent to warmer temperatures that dried our shoes and clothes (that weren`t poncho protected) before we reached our evening camp. The route gave a good lead-up to the ruins of Macchu Pichu, as the Inca stone road was punctuated by various smaller ruins along the way which our guide would tell us about. Because of the rugged terrain, very little development has reached this area of the Andes even to this day, so it was not diffucult to imagine oneself a traveler of five centuries ago along the same road. As the rain cleared and we descended into MP on the last morning, I was impressed by the size of the site -- larger than I expected. After a tour of the site, we descended to the tourist town of Aguas Calientes at the mountain´s base for lunch and a short stop at the natural hot springs before catching the train (only way to arrive there) back to Cuzco, celebrating on the way with our fellow hikers by having the Peruvian national drink, a Pisco Sour.
Thanks for reading, and have a great day!
Saturday, April 5, 2008
La Semana Santa en Chimbote
Greetings! It´s been a while since my last post, so I`ll start with Holy Week. Overall, the lead up was very busy, including rehearsals each night until 10:00 pm for our Via Crucis (way of the cross) with the youth and young adults, English classes, and preparing for the visit of my mom and Janie. Also, the choir had a lot of singing obligations at the parish, which was both fun and tiring. On Palm Sunday morning a few of us were in charge of leading the singing for the procession from a neighborhood basketball court to the church. People brought their own palms (or other sort of branches), and we even had a donkey lead the procession -- although no one rode her in. Though it meant rising early, it was a cool experience. In the evening our choir had singing responsibilities at the mass itself, and I enjoyed the mix of `kingly` songs, including `Cristo Rey` and `Tù Reinaràs`. Monday I did laundry, cleaned the house a bit (including sweeping the very dusty extra room that Mom and Janie, my aunt, were to be using -- we hadn`t swept since Christmas and the layer was quite thick). In addition, I made copies for both the Monday and Wednesday English classes, since I was to return barely in time for the Wednesday class. Making copies is sometimes an adventure, since the close/inexpensive place is periodically closed due to copier problems, which then entails another 10 minute walk to near the main plaza to another copy shop. Right after English class, I joined the Via Crucis rehearsal (I had the part of John the apostle -- no lines, just accompanying Mary the whole time), and then headed to catch the night bus to Lima. After a day of resting and a little exploring of Lima (the ritzy area of Miraflores on the coast) with my friend Luzeliana, who I met during our Lima course, Sister Silvia accompanied me to the airport to meet Mom and Janie. I should have called ahead, because we ended up waiting from 10:00 pm until 3:30 am due to tornadoes in Houston area. The late night didn`t help my cold any, but it was definitely good to welcome my first visitors to Peru.
The next day we had panoramic seats on the bus to Chimbote, and soon after arriving at home we were off to my English class in the evening. Thursday, Mom and Janie accompanied me with Justina on our hospice visits, which was a powerful experience for them. They got a lot of practice with their spanish, and Mom`s classes have paid off -- she did well! The rest of Thursday we had lunch downtown with Emily and Nicole, explored a bit of the waterfront, and went to Holy Thursday Mass. Friday my friend Roberto accompanied us on a walk to the sand dunes where I often go running, a nice trip out into the farmland. Later Mom and I took a tour of the local outdoor market --fish section especially crazy with it being Good Friday-- and we all were invited to lunch at the home of a family I have gotten to know. Mom and Janie were a bit scared of catching something from the food, but we all survived well enough -- I was served three types of fish! -- Ceviche, fried bonito, and jugoso. Mom and Janie passed on the ceviche, but enjoyed the rest. Friday evening brought our re-enactment of the stations of the cross through the streets of one of the neighborhoods here, and though I had had doubts about whether it would come off, it was a moving experience for me and for mom and Janie. As John, I followed Jesus with the two Marys. Shouting periodically for mercy or in anguish. The soldiers were whipping Jesus and the two other theives (not really, though), with the screaming crowd behind them (25-30 young people), followed by the couple hundred folks accompanying the procession. Each station was acted out at a pre-designated spot, at which a `host` family had set up an altar with flowers, pictures and candles. Curious folks stopped to watch as we passed by, once we even interrupted a soccer game by acting out one of Jesus` falls right in the middle. The players disperesed and watched respectfully until the prayers were said and we moved on. Dark descended by the time we reached the crucifixion scene, which also was moving and not without some real danger (we had not rehearsed with the crosses ahead of time, and one of them snapped as it was being hoisted into its hole -- an improvement we could make for next year). Finally, helping to carry the `dead` Jesus back the 10 blocks to the church was more tiring than you would think. The young people were excited at how it turned out, as actors would be after a successful play, and it added a new dimension of the passion for me, trying to put myself in the role of one of Jesus`s close friends witnessing his death. The long day ended with an impromptu guitar/vocal concert by Emily and Nicole`s boyfriends, Roger and Elvis, at our house.
Mom and I began Easter Vigil by hiking with a few of my friends up the Cerro de la Paz, where a church overlooks all of Chimbote (through the smoke from the steel factory) and the coastal islands. Through this trip and other experiences, I was happy to have Mom and Janie get to know a lot of my friends here. Also, they are now able to picture my environment (including daily realities such as boiling water, cold showers, and dust) much more clearly. By Saturday both Mom and Janie had caught my cold, unfortunately, so they didn`t make it far into the Easter Vigil Mass. We did enjoy painting eggs with Emily and Nicole on Easter morning, followed by a good lunch and fun conversation with the IW sisters at their convent here: Sisters Juanita, Rosaleen, Katty, Pilar and Mirella.
Though the week was a blessing overall, it ended for me on a sobering note. On my way to choir rehearsal prior to the evening Easter mass, I was robbed by a group of four young guys just outside the church, still quite light at 5:45 pm. They initially tried to take my backpack (containing choir books) but were unable to because it was clasped in front. After a bit of a struggle -- I was able to keep them from getting behind me -- they did get my hat and gave me a good punch to face, leaving me with a swollen face that later turned into a black eye. A bit shaken, I caught a moto taxi home and we later went to the police station with Sister Juanita to make a report. It happened so quickly, though, that I was not able to describe any of the young men well. At any rate, it was good timing to be leaving the next day for Lima and Cuzco (though not so good for the trip photos, but oh-well). Thanks for sticking with this long blog, I´ll continue the report about our trip and add a good numbers of photos soon.
I wish you a blessed Easter Season.
The next day we had panoramic seats on the bus to Chimbote, and soon after arriving at home we were off to my English class in the evening. Thursday, Mom and Janie accompanied me with Justina on our hospice visits, which was a powerful experience for them. They got a lot of practice with their spanish, and Mom`s classes have paid off -- she did well! The rest of Thursday we had lunch downtown with Emily and Nicole, explored a bit of the waterfront, and went to Holy Thursday Mass. Friday my friend Roberto accompanied us on a walk to the sand dunes where I often go running, a nice trip out into the farmland. Later Mom and I took a tour of the local outdoor market --fish section especially crazy with it being Good Friday-- and we all were invited to lunch at the home of a family I have gotten to know. Mom and Janie were a bit scared of catching something from the food, but we all survived well enough -- I was served three types of fish! -- Ceviche, fried bonito, and jugoso. Mom and Janie passed on the ceviche, but enjoyed the rest. Friday evening brought our re-enactment of the stations of the cross through the streets of one of the neighborhoods here, and though I had had doubts about whether it would come off, it was a moving experience for me and for mom and Janie. As John, I followed Jesus with the two Marys. Shouting periodically for mercy or in anguish. The soldiers were whipping Jesus and the two other theives (not really, though), with the screaming crowd behind them (25-30 young people), followed by the couple hundred folks accompanying the procession. Each station was acted out at a pre-designated spot, at which a `host` family had set up an altar with flowers, pictures and candles. Curious folks stopped to watch as we passed by, once we even interrupted a soccer game by acting out one of Jesus` falls right in the middle. The players disperesed and watched respectfully until the prayers were said and we moved on. Dark descended by the time we reached the crucifixion scene, which also was moving and not without some real danger (we had not rehearsed with the crosses ahead of time, and one of them snapped as it was being hoisted into its hole -- an improvement we could make for next year). Finally, helping to carry the `dead` Jesus back the 10 blocks to the church was more tiring than you would think. The young people were excited at how it turned out, as actors would be after a successful play, and it added a new dimension of the passion for me, trying to put myself in the role of one of Jesus`s close friends witnessing his death. The long day ended with an impromptu guitar/vocal concert by Emily and Nicole`s boyfriends, Roger and Elvis, at our house.
Mom and I began Easter Vigil by hiking with a few of my friends up the Cerro de la Paz, where a church overlooks all of Chimbote (through the smoke from the steel factory) and the coastal islands. Through this trip and other experiences, I was happy to have Mom and Janie get to know a lot of my friends here. Also, they are now able to picture my environment (including daily realities such as boiling water, cold showers, and dust) much more clearly. By Saturday both Mom and Janie had caught my cold, unfortunately, so they didn`t make it far into the Easter Vigil Mass. We did enjoy painting eggs with Emily and Nicole on Easter morning, followed by a good lunch and fun conversation with the IW sisters at their convent here: Sisters Juanita, Rosaleen, Katty, Pilar and Mirella.
Though the week was a blessing overall, it ended for me on a sobering note. On my way to choir rehearsal prior to the evening Easter mass, I was robbed by a group of four young guys just outside the church, still quite light at 5:45 pm. They initially tried to take my backpack (containing choir books) but were unable to because it was clasped in front. After a bit of a struggle -- I was able to keep them from getting behind me -- they did get my hat and gave me a good punch to face, leaving me with a swollen face that later turned into a black eye. A bit shaken, I caught a moto taxi home and we later went to the police station with Sister Juanita to make a report. It happened so quickly, though, that I was not able to describe any of the young men well. At any rate, it was good timing to be leaving the next day for Lima and Cuzco (though not so good for the trip photos, but oh-well). Thanks for sticking with this long blog, I´ll continue the report about our trip and add a good numbers of photos soon.
I wish you a blessed Easter Season.
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