Greetings to everyone!
New photos of our youth council camping trip are posted on the photo site at right. Below, news about the past three weeks in Chimbote...
NEW MISSIONARIES
Last entry I introduced briefly my new companions in mission here: Julie, Jane and Courtney. Now, a little more detail as to where they come from and what their ministries are evolving to be here
- Jane Silcock is 22 years old and just graduated from The University of Missouri, her home state, with majors in communications and journalism. She worked there for a TV/radio station as a reporter. Here in Chimbote, she is continuing in her field by working part-time at Cecopros, a non-profit which puts out the diocesan newspaper, does TV journalism, and produces faith/justice-based videos about local issues, people and organizations. She does camera work, takes photos, edits, will write articles, and does upkeep on their website (www.cecopros.org). Jane has also joined the youth folkloric dance group at the parish and has performed in a few presenations already, the first IWM to do so, I believe. Jane`s other ministry is helping at the Center for Social Justice, where she will accompany the team on visits to the local jail along with other projects. Jane also keeps a blog, which is linked at right, will be living in Chimbote for two years.
- Julie Ramaley, 21, hails from Connecticut and just graduated in pre-med from Villanova University in Philadelphia. She intends to apply for medical school after her year of IWM service and currently splits her time between the Sisters` clinic next to our parish and a womens` hospital/birthing center called Maternidad de Marìa. Julie is a swimmer and played water polo for Villanova, and misses her pool time here. As a substitute she has begun running with me 3-4 days per week in the mornings before she heads off. Julie has been a vegetarian from an early age, though does eat fish -- so doesn`t miss out on ceviche, the local specialty. Julie is the primary assistant for our mid-level English group.
- Courtney Cranston, 21, grew up in St. Paul, Minnesota, but also loves Chicago, where she graduated this year from the nursing program at Loyola University. Like me, Courtney adopted a new name--Corina--upon arrival, `Courtney` proving quite difficult for people here to pronounce. Corina works with Julie at the clinic and maternity center and also plays guitar and loves to sing. Roger has extended an invitation to join his band as a singer, which she is excited about. Corina is the primary assistant for our beginners in the English course.
RODENTS
Beginning a week or two prior to the arrival of Jane, Corina and Julie, we began having a problem with mice helping themselves to any food products not in the fridge or in plastic containers. Since then, we`ve taken both defensive (everything in plastic -- old peanut butter jars come in really handy) and offensive (mouse poison pellets) measures. For the poison, three nights in a row we left considerable quantities of pellets in the rodent-traffic areas -- all were gone in the mornings. Jane has had the most intimate contact, consistent mouse droppings in a corner of her room, plus incidences of such remains left under her pillow during our absence camping and in her sheets after a night when she slept in her bed. Needless to say, she was a little grossed out. All in all, the verdict is iffy -- either we were hosting a very large quantity of mice or the poison doesn`t work. Currently, we are coexisting.
CAMPING
As I mentioned above, I`ve posted some photos of our September 20-21 camping trip with JUMIFRA, our youth leadership council. As a reward for a series of events planned and carried out in the parish, Fr. Carlos suggested a recreation outing, and the group chose camping -- which many had never done here. Camping is not at all common here, except for maybe occasional sleeping on the beach. (I judge camping`s rarity a result of economics and the fact that the living situation of many here -- part inside, part outside -- itself resembles the US version of camping. It`s not a stretch at all to say that many families here live with less amenities (although a bit more space) than the standard RV provides, but that is another topic.) We had a great time camping at the farm of Father Carlos` uncle just outside the small town of Moro, 2 hours southeast of Chimbote in a fertile river valley. We had 2 1/2 actual tents plus one which we fabricated from sheets of plastic and wood poles -- it fell down in the morning when the guys got up, but served its purpose. In all, 15 of us, including Jane and Corina, made up the group which enjoyed the group games, hanging out by a small river, campfire songs, and hike to a nearby pre-Inca cemetery, now a small hill. For food we cooked in a pot over the fire quaker (the oatmeal/milk drink) and then chicken & rice for lunch. We returned Sunday afternoon content, tired, and filthy.
YOUTH DAY
Two weeks ago we celebrated the national youth day (23rd) by going with friends Yuri, Alex, and Colver to Nuevo Chimbote for a concert by Grupo 5, the band of the moment here in Peru. The huge plaza was quite full, the only problem was that Grupo 5 experienced some delay in coming on stage and the opening act played until 12:30, Grupo 5 not coming out until 1:00 am. We passed the time talking, people watching, and having anticuchos (skewered/grilled beef heart) but were too tired to stay much past 1:30 am.
FUNERAL
This past week, Alex`s mom died after a three-month battle with stomach cancer. I hadn`t seen Alex much lately, as he was occupied in caring for his mom and helping to run a restaurant his family had opened in his house in order to raise money for her care and treatment. A delay in diagnosis proved too much to overcome, however, and his mom died a week after returning to Chimbote after a stay in Lima in search of better treatment. We four joined a number of his friends from the choir and parish in accompanying Alex in the funeral process. Traditions vary much here from those in the US. When a person dies, that same day tents are erected in the street out front of the house for friends and family to gather, and a room within the house is transformed into the wake area, where the deceased rests in a casket next to lights, pillars, flowers, etc provided by the funeral company. For a couple days, family and friends come and go, offering their presence and support -- our choir participated by singing some songs on the first night to accompany a short prayer service performed by Father Carlos. After singing, we stayed until past midnight, sitting on chairs out in the street -- many stay all night. The whole experience seems exhausting for the family, since beside their grief they are expected to serve food and drink to the visitors periodically throughout the 2-3 days. Anyway, on the second day after his mom died we attended the funeral -- a procession with a small brass band the half-mile to the parish for mass, then additional procession out of the church for a few blocks after which we caught a cab to the parish (the two buses provided by the family were stuffed full). Burials are generally not underground here, but to save space they instead build structures five-levels high that the casket is slid into after family members have a chance to say final words of rememberance. The band plays and the family comforts each other while a cementery employee mixes a small batch of cement to seal up the tomb right then and there. Finally, we took a cab back to Alex`s house where the family served another meal and a small group of us sat and talked with Alex for a while. Alex is 27 and his mom in her late forties, and he is doing OK but definitely seeking to be with friends instead of alone. We have hung out a few times since then, including a gathering of about 15 of us from the parish downtown where we played group games in the two main plazas, walked along the ocean, and had pizza. I also joined Yuri and Alex for a visit with his family on this past Saturday -- they were making a huge pot of a dessert called Chiclayo in camp-style fire in the street in front of the house. It was my first time to try the dish, which consists of cooked fresh pumpking, sugar, water, and milk, and is eaten in a bowl like soup. Not bad -- different, but not bad.
GUITAR AND MUSIC
I have begun to meet regularly with Roger, a friend of mine and Nicole`s boyfriend, for him to give me lessons on playing guitar. He is a quite impressive guitarist, and I am learning a lot -- practice and theory. On the musical theme, I continue to practice on the quena (a flute) in free moments and am making gradual progress. For this weekend`s feast of St. Francis, patron of the parish here, our English class has been invited to sing a couple songs as a contribution to the entertainment during the lunch (following the mass during which a young man from the parish will be ordained a priest). We will sing Here I am, Lord and Amazing Grace -- Roger accompanying us on guitar and me maybe playing the zampoña for the first time in public. We had rehearsal last night with the group, and...we need some more work. But, I have faith it will turn out OK.
ONE-YEAR ANNIVERSARY
This past Thursday, September 25, I celebrated the one-year anniversary of my arrival here in Chimbote. I actually didn`t do too much to celebrate, but did some reflecting during down moments on my time here so far. Seems to have gone quickly in some sense, but also I feel that it was so long ago that I was in the US. Next entry I will share some more thoughts on this milestone, things I do/don`t will/won`t miss, etc. I`ve been asked how I`ve changed in this year, and I honestly have a hard time coming up with a solid answer to that question. Maybe I will only know for sure when I return...
Have a blessed week.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Friday, September 12, 2008
Transitions...
Greetings from Chimbote, on a gray and cool winter day. To go with the recent photos that you can access with the link at right, here are some highlights and reflections on life here in Peru since my last blog a month ago:
FRENCH CYCLIST VISITS
As a member of the `Warm Showers List` website, I am on a list of people who are willing to host traveling cyclists with a place to stay, food, and a warm shower (we are lacking in the `warm` part at the moment, but we do have showers -- see below). I have been on the list for a few years, but was never contacted while in Oregon. Here in Chimbote, three travelers/couples have written me emails, with one visit coming to fruition. Nicolas Carron, a 30-year-old from France who has spent a year in Tennessee in grad school and is in the first month of a year-long trip around South America (partly by bike), stayed a day and night with us in August. Having trouble with his vision near Huaràz, he took a bus to Chimbote to have his eyes checked (turned out to be nothing wrong) and pick up some bike tools. We had a pleasant visit, and below you can see a photo of him as he rode away (a very light packer, I must say).
ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS EVENT
In the month of August our youth council organized and pulled off two successful events for youth and adults of our community. First, on August 16, we hosted a profesor from the local national university who spoke about the sober reality of how we as a city are massively polluting the bay on which we sit. I joined teams that went to neighborhood schools ahead of time to speak with science teachers, several of whom brought with them 10-25 students, for a crowd of about 100 people including parishioners. I enjoyed the chance to enter inside the various high schools and elementary schools, to see a little of that reality. In truth, I sensed a wide range of upkeep, professionalism, order in the several schools we visited -- though nearly all the teachers we talked with were excited about the invitation and opportunity to bring students. For the event itself, JUMIFRA youth council members cleaned, set-up, welcomed, and made/served chicha morada, a very popular drink here made by boiling purple corn with cinnamon, cloves, and pineapple and then adding sugar. Though it ran a bit long, the presentation was well-done and supported by a number of graphics and photos which we displayed with a digital projector borrowed from one of the parish priests. The assembled public learned of the initial pristine condition of the bay (as late as the mid-50`s) and the causes for its steady degradation: fishing industry, steel mill, sewer, hospital waste. For example, all sewers -- 100% -- dump directly into the bay just off the shore from downtown, industrial construction has changed current patterns and increased coastal erosion, and there is no longer a beach that fronts the `tourist hotel.` We collected names and contact information from attendees, and plan to follow up with the schools themselves and with other parish events and projects. Lots to do...
COMPAÑA COMPARTIR
Next, we turned our attention briefly to the Compaña Compartir (Sharing Campaign) that is an annual initiative of the Peruvian Catholic Church to collect funds for a particular cause, maybe similar to the Catholic Charities collection. The difference is that you see the posters everywhere -- post office, stores, etc. And, though with late notice, our pastor asked the youth council to take charge of visiting the neighborhood schools to take up collections there. So, early in the week I went with Lucciani to leave official notices from the pastor requesting permission to return on Friday, August 22, to present/collect in each classroom. On Friday, teams of two young adults went to five neighborhood schools, I with Nelly to Corpus Cristi, a few doors down from my house -- the theme this year was `Toward a World Free of Drugs.` The striking part about the whole experience was the access on behalf of the church to the school system -- the letter from the pastor was all we needed. Definitely different from the US.
YOUTH MUSIC CONCERT
Following the Compaña Compartir JUMIFRA (Juventud Misionera Franciscana -- Franciscan Missionary Youth) bore down on pulling together a youth music concert for August 30th. A big event that came off quite well, aside from some confusion on who was in charge of preparing the food (a form of hotdogs, even less apetizing in my view but popular here) to sell during the event. Nonetheless, the food we sold covered much of the cost for renting the sound equipment. Although the event started late (surprised?), it featured good quality and variety of music: both youth choirs (including mine), Franciscan postulants, Cumbia singer, Christian music group, Latin American Music, an `all-star` group from both our choirs, and a local high school rock band. Our new missionaries -- Julie, Jane, and Courtney -- even joined me in our choir on their second full day in Chimbote. A lot of work cleaning up and decorating during the day, but worth it in the end. Besides music, we continued with the environmental awareness theme, making posters with anti-pollution and pro-conservation messages as decoration and running a loop of photos of local environmental pollution on a screen above the stage during the show.
NEW INCARNATE WORD MISSIONARIES
I missed some of the run-up preparations for the concert because I made a trip to Lima to meet and welcome our new IWM`s -- Julie, Jane and Courtney (Corina). They arrived at 12:30 am on Tuesday, August 26, and I met them at the airport with Sisters Mirella and Pilar. We took two taxis back to the sisters` house, where we stayed for three nights and two days for a quick orientation to Lima. Activities during our stay included a visit to the National Museum (with a sobering exhibit about the years of terrorist violence in Peru in the 80`s and 90`s), downtown Lima and the Plaza de Armas (see photo below), the Convent of Santo Domingo with the tombs of Saint Martin de Porres and Saint Rose of Lima, the Park of the Waters with its beautiful lit-up fountains, and visits to both additional houses for Incarnate Word sisters in the capital city.
On Thursday we were back in Chimbote for a welcome dinner with Emily, Nicole, and the sisters here and then a full weekend at the parish with the concert, a trip to mass at Nuevo Chimbote`s Cathedral, and their first taste of ceviche (no major damage). Since then, Jane, Julie and Courtney have gradually been visiting various sites where they might choose to devote their time in service: a Catholic radio station and video/publishing center, Hospice, the medical clinic, birthing center, women`s education center, prostitute ministry, and of course they`ve taken turns assisting with our growing English class program. Additionally, they helped with and enjoyed the Goodbye/welcome party we held in our back patio (see below). With Emily and Nicole now gone a few days, we are working to settle into our new community and routines, and its been positive so far -- I look forward to a good year ahead. You`ll hear more about each of my new housemates in future posts...
DESPEDIDA
With the welcoming of my new housemates came of course a goodbye to my companions and friends of this past year, Emily and Nicole Tardio. Both helped a ton in showing the new missionaries around, and I feel that Julie, Courtney and Jane are at least more aware and less naive than we were about safety issues and practical tips from the several conversations that the six of us shared. I feel sad to see Emily and Nicole go, after many shared adventures and laughs, but my overall feeling is one of gratitude for walking alongside them for this chapter of our lives. We most likely will find our way to a reunion back in the US at some point, so the goodbye is not forever -- as it likely was with them and their Peruvian friends. They are currently in Huaràz, Peru, and will be in Lima later today. Tomorrow they fly to Iquitos in NW Peru, where they will spend a few days in a jungle lodge on the Amazon. They are both excited and nervous -- Nicole especially about the 5:00 am canoe rides to view wildlife :). On the 19th they will be on a plane back to Cincinatti, their excited family members, and their next adventure. I pray that this experience continues to live on in their hearts, minds, and lives.
To say goodbye to the many groups of friends they`ve gotten to know here, we decided to throw a goodbye party (despedida) at our house. We cleaned, shopped (5 kilos of ground meat and 8 kilos of potatos) cooked (I made cookies, girls made hamburgers and french fries with the help of hospice friends), and cleaned. Colver and Cuder lent their music and stereo system, and we danced until almost 5 am -- OK, I ran out of energy around 2 am and mostly talked after that. For once, we were the noise of the neighborhood, but a lot of fun in all with invitees from our English class, the parish, hospice co-workers, and a few extras. On the night of their final departure, the four of us remaining IWM`s and several guys from the parish -- all went to the bus terminal to see them off, waving goodbye as a few drops of rare rain came down.
CUYADA (GUINEA PIG LUNCH FUNDRAISER)
On September 7 the parish held an annual fundraiser, this year a cuy (guinea pig) lunch). We missionaries and youth helped set up, manage food lines (Peruvians don`t wait in line well, not seeing the point) and also to peel potatoes amidst de-haired, gutted, cuyes hanging inside-out on a clothes line over our heads (see photos). Julie is a vegetarian (although she eats fish) so didn`t sample the finished product, but Jane and Courtney liked it OK. I don`t see cuy as the delicacy that it is viewed as by most Peruvians, but will eat it when served. (see photos below)
MISCELANEOUS...
With time for this session running short, a quick summary of the rest: I planned and led my first Confirmation session in Spanish on Tuesday, English class is steadily growing, we had fun watching Peru tie Argentina in soccer at Alex`s house with he and Yuri a couple days ago, I am initiating a long-term youth visiting program with members of JUMIFRA to various neighborhoods, and our electric showerheads have once again stopped working, leaving us with cold showers once again, but this time during the winter -- every day another chance to live simply :).
Until next time, God bless!
FRENCH CYCLIST VISITS
As a member of the `Warm Showers List` website, I am on a list of people who are willing to host traveling cyclists with a place to stay, food, and a warm shower (we are lacking in the `warm` part at the moment, but we do have showers -- see below). I have been on the list for a few years, but was never contacted while in Oregon. Here in Chimbote, three travelers/couples have written me emails, with one visit coming to fruition. Nicolas Carron, a 30-year-old from France who has spent a year in Tennessee in grad school and is in the first month of a year-long trip around South America (partly by bike), stayed a day and night with us in August. Having trouble with his vision near Huaràz, he took a bus to Chimbote to have his eyes checked (turned out to be nothing wrong) and pick up some bike tools. We had a pleasant visit, and below you can see a photo of him as he rode away (a very light packer, I must say).
ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS EVENT
In the month of August our youth council organized and pulled off two successful events for youth and adults of our community. First, on August 16, we hosted a profesor from the local national university who spoke about the sober reality of how we as a city are massively polluting the bay on which we sit. I joined teams that went to neighborhood schools ahead of time to speak with science teachers, several of whom brought with them 10-25 students, for a crowd of about 100 people including parishioners. I enjoyed the chance to enter inside the various high schools and elementary schools, to see a little of that reality. In truth, I sensed a wide range of upkeep, professionalism, order in the several schools we visited -- though nearly all the teachers we talked with were excited about the invitation and opportunity to bring students. For the event itself, JUMIFRA youth council members cleaned, set-up, welcomed, and made/served chicha morada, a very popular drink here made by boiling purple corn with cinnamon, cloves, and pineapple and then adding sugar. Though it ran a bit long, the presentation was well-done and supported by a number of graphics and photos which we displayed with a digital projector borrowed from one of the parish priests. The assembled public learned of the initial pristine condition of the bay (as late as the mid-50`s) and the causes for its steady degradation: fishing industry, steel mill, sewer, hospital waste. For example, all sewers -- 100% -- dump directly into the bay just off the shore from downtown, industrial construction has changed current patterns and increased coastal erosion, and there is no longer a beach that fronts the `tourist hotel.` We collected names and contact information from attendees, and plan to follow up with the schools themselves and with other parish events and projects. Lots to do...
COMPAÑA COMPARTIR
Next, we turned our attention briefly to the Compaña Compartir (Sharing Campaign) that is an annual initiative of the Peruvian Catholic Church to collect funds for a particular cause, maybe similar to the Catholic Charities collection. The difference is that you see the posters everywhere -- post office, stores, etc. And, though with late notice, our pastor asked the youth council to take charge of visiting the neighborhood schools to take up collections there. So, early in the week I went with Lucciani to leave official notices from the pastor requesting permission to return on Friday, August 22, to present/collect in each classroom. On Friday, teams of two young adults went to five neighborhood schools, I with Nelly to Corpus Cristi, a few doors down from my house -- the theme this year was `Toward a World Free of Drugs.` The striking part about the whole experience was the access on behalf of the church to the school system -- the letter from the pastor was all we needed. Definitely different from the US.
YOUTH MUSIC CONCERT
Following the Compaña Compartir JUMIFRA (Juventud Misionera Franciscana -- Franciscan Missionary Youth) bore down on pulling together a youth music concert for August 30th. A big event that came off quite well, aside from some confusion on who was in charge of preparing the food (a form of hotdogs, even less apetizing in my view but popular here) to sell during the event. Nonetheless, the food we sold covered much of the cost for renting the sound equipment. Although the event started late (surprised?), it featured good quality and variety of music: both youth choirs (including mine), Franciscan postulants, Cumbia singer, Christian music group, Latin American Music, an `all-star` group from both our choirs, and a local high school rock band. Our new missionaries -- Julie, Jane, and Courtney -- even joined me in our choir on their second full day in Chimbote. A lot of work cleaning up and decorating during the day, but worth it in the end. Besides music, we continued with the environmental awareness theme, making posters with anti-pollution and pro-conservation messages as decoration and running a loop of photos of local environmental pollution on a screen above the stage during the show.
NEW INCARNATE WORD MISSIONARIES
I missed some of the run-up preparations for the concert because I made a trip to Lima to meet and welcome our new IWM`s -- Julie, Jane and Courtney (Corina). They arrived at 12:30 am on Tuesday, August 26, and I met them at the airport with Sisters Mirella and Pilar. We took two taxis back to the sisters` house, where we stayed for three nights and two days for a quick orientation to Lima. Activities during our stay included a visit to the National Museum (with a sobering exhibit about the years of terrorist violence in Peru in the 80`s and 90`s), downtown Lima and the Plaza de Armas (see photo below), the Convent of Santo Domingo with the tombs of Saint Martin de Porres and Saint Rose of Lima, the Park of the Waters with its beautiful lit-up fountains, and visits to both additional houses for Incarnate Word sisters in the capital city.
On Thursday we were back in Chimbote for a welcome dinner with Emily, Nicole, and the sisters here and then a full weekend at the parish with the concert, a trip to mass at Nuevo Chimbote`s Cathedral, and their first taste of ceviche (no major damage). Since then, Jane, Julie and Courtney have gradually been visiting various sites where they might choose to devote their time in service: a Catholic radio station and video/publishing center, Hospice, the medical clinic, birthing center, women`s education center, prostitute ministry, and of course they`ve taken turns assisting with our growing English class program. Additionally, they helped with and enjoyed the Goodbye/welcome party we held in our back patio (see below). With Emily and Nicole now gone a few days, we are working to settle into our new community and routines, and its been positive so far -- I look forward to a good year ahead. You`ll hear more about each of my new housemates in future posts...DESPEDIDA
With the welcoming of my new housemates came of course a goodbye to my companions and friends of this past year, Emily and Nicole Tardio. Both helped a ton in showing the new missionaries around, and I feel that Julie, Courtney and Jane are at least more aware and less naive than we were about safety issues and practical tips from the several conversations that the six of us shared. I feel sad to see Emily and Nicole go, after many shared adventures and laughs, but my overall feeling is one of gratitude for walking alongside them for this chapter of our lives. We most likely will find our way to a reunion back in the US at some point, so the goodbye is not forever -- as it likely was with them and their Peruvian friends. They are currently in Huaràz, Peru, and will be in Lima later today. Tomorrow they fly to Iquitos in NW Peru, where they will spend a few days in a jungle lodge on the Amazon. They are both excited and nervous -- Nicole especially about the 5:00 am canoe rides to view wildlife :). On the 19th they will be on a plane back to Cincinatti, their excited family members, and their next adventure. I pray that this experience continues to live on in their hearts, minds, and lives.
To say goodbye to the many groups of friends they`ve gotten to know here, we decided to throw a goodbye party (despedida) at our house. We cleaned, shopped (5 kilos of ground meat and 8 kilos of potatos) cooked (I made cookies, girls made hamburgers and french fries with the help of hospice friends), and cleaned. Colver and Cuder lent their music and stereo system, and we danced until almost 5 am -- OK, I ran out of energy around 2 am and mostly talked after that. For once, we were the noise of the neighborhood, but a lot of fun in all with invitees from our English class, the parish, hospice co-workers, and a few extras. On the night of their final departure, the four of us remaining IWM`s and several guys from the parish -- all went to the bus terminal to see them off, waving goodbye as a few drops of rare rain came down.
CUYADA (GUINEA PIG LUNCH FUNDRAISER)
On September 7 the parish held an annual fundraiser, this year a cuy (guinea pig) lunch). We missionaries and youth helped set up, manage food lines (Peruvians don`t wait in line well, not seeing the point) and also to peel potatoes amidst de-haired, gutted, cuyes hanging inside-out on a clothes line over our heads (see photos). Julie is a vegetarian (although she eats fish) so didn`t sample the finished product, but Jane and Courtney liked it OK. I don`t see cuy as the delicacy that it is viewed as by most Peruvians, but will eat it when served. (see photos below)
MISCELANEOUS...
With time for this session running short, a quick summary of the rest: I planned and led my first Confirmation session in Spanish on Tuesday, English class is steadily growing, we had fun watching Peru tie Argentina in soccer at Alex`s house with he and Yuri a couple days ago, I am initiating a long-term youth visiting program with members of JUMIFRA to various neighborhoods, and our electric showerheads have once again stopped working, leaving us with cold showers once again, but this time during the winter -- every day another chance to live simply :).
Until next time, God bless!
Thursday, September 11, 2008
I have been away from the blogdesk for some time, but promise a thorough update of the past month within a few days. Until then, I offer the text of an article that I recently wrote for the Peruvian Incarnate Word Sisters` bulletin, in which I reflect on my experience after nearly one year here. Also, I have posted a couple of albums of recent photos which you can see by accessing the link at right. Enjoy!
THE CHIMBOTE MISSIONARY LIFE (written August 4, 2008)
I found the Incarnate Word Missionaries ad in the Response catalog of an organization called Catholic Network of Volunteer Service, or CNVS, in the spring of 2007 as I was exploring options for living and serving in Latin America for an extended period. Two previous visits to Guatemala and several service trips with youth to Tijuana had triggered and sustained this calling, this tug on my heart that did not go away even amidst the busy and fulfilling life of youth ministry in a U.S. Catholic parish. This interior stirring, combined with a growing sense of the ignorance of most US citizens (and Catholics) of life outside the US and a desire to help build bridges and encourage increased solidarity in my fellow US Christians, was plenty of motivation for sending CNVS interest forms to about 10 congregational volunteer programs. About four later I had chosen – and had been chosen by – the Incarnate Word Missionary program of the Sisters of Charity of the Incarnate word.
Following a three-week orientation and retreat period in San Antonio, I embarked with my fellow Peru IWM`s – Emily and Nicole Tardio, from Cincinnati, Ohio – on our adventure into the unknown. Our daily sessions and discussions at the University of the Incarnate Word had included a wide range of topics, from cross-cultural sensitivity and culture shock to CCVI history, journaling, and recommendations for living together in community. Still, we grew more and more eager to actually see our new home, city, country – what would our new life be like? Despite the best efforts of Meg and Tere, we all three feel that the true orientation was `on the job,` so to speak. What have we learned these eleven months? From the unique perspective of this August Monday morning in Chimbote, I seek to share with you some reflections as I ponder this very worthy question.
RAW FISH ISN`T THAT BAD
Though fans of sushi might already have learned this, we have come to enjoy this concoction of raw fish (can also include shellfish), garlic, lime juice, ajì (hot pepper), sweet potato, yucca, and corn. The typical Chimbotano eats ceviche multiple times each week – if not every day – usually as a mid-morning snack, at home or one of the ubiquitous formal and informal (i.e. the clean and the hygienically questionable) cevicherìas.
MOPPING THE FLOOR IS A LOSING BATTLE
Dust is a reality of life here – it keeps coming, and coming, and coming. We began by mopping the whole house each week, only to judge the effort pointless – we succeeded only in moving the dirt around and removing a few footprints. Though we now have settled into sweeping once per week and mopping occasionally, we have developed a certain dust tolerance and never go barefoot in the house.
WHAT SMELL?
Warned numerous times before our arrival how Chimbote smells strongly of fish, we were pleasantly surprised not to smell anything out of the ordinary as we got off the bus for the first time, Sister Juanita there to meet us. Nowadays, we learned, fishing periods are limited due to past over-fishing – which is bad news for the local economy but good news for local lungs. Still, we have had a taste of `the smell of money`, as they say here, for a few short periods.
TIME IS RELATIVE
I have adjusted somewhat, but I don`t think I will ever fully get used to the flexible conception of time and schedules, i.e. `Let`s say the meeting starts at 7:00 so that we will be sure to start by 7:30.` Why not just say it starts at 7:30 and actually start then? I naively ask. Because then everyone won`t arrive until 8:00. On the positive side, I love how I can organize an outing with 5-10 friends with a day`s notice.
ENGLISH IS A DIFFICULT LANGUAGE TO LEARN
As one of our steady ministries here we offer a program of English classes within the parish, now with three different levels. A couple realizations: English pronunciation is difficult, we have many expressions that make no literal sense, and teaching English is a lot more complicated than just knowing how to speak it.
PERUVIANS LOVE TO DANCE TO LOUD MUSIC
What`s a party without dancing? Well, here it wouldn`t be a party at all. I enjoy the festive culture, but the noise level of parties (like from the `social and cultural association` across the street) and life in general has taken some getting used to. We can sleep through the dogs no problem by now, though the garbage truck`s horn remains impossible to work into one`s dreams.
OUR WORK AND PRESENCE IS APPRECIATED
Though my parish work in the US was more involved, took more time, and sometimes produced more tangible `results` than my efforts here, I have experienced genuine welcome and appreciation that in my own culture we often don`t take the time to express. Especially in my first couple months here (complicated by a dislocated elbow playing basketball) I felt like I was floating a bit – looking for where I would find a niche, where I would do my `work.` Now I have more projects in mind than there is time to start, yet have adopted a slower, more patient rhythm and expectations.
CHIMBOTE IS NOT A TOURIST CITY
A major struggle for the three of us has been the general lack of security here coupled with our glaring `non-anonymity.` With few gringos around, we attract attention (especially Emily and Nicole) wherever we go. Experiences of being robbed in the street have made us more watchful and careful as to when, where, and carrying which things we will walk around. Though we are more obvious targets due to the association of gringos with money, our friends who live here also are victims of crime and have to take precautions.
PROBLEMS ARE BIG, BUT PEOPLE WANT CHANGE
The struggles that many here face – individually and as a society – can seem overwhelming and an adequate response impossible: pollution and garbage, lack of work, poverty, the humble living conditions of some hospice patients, corrupt and inefficient government, inadequate health care services, despair and drug use, gangs, crime, etc. Still, especially among the young people I have met in my work at the parish, hope and desire for change are alive and well. How do I help them take their own steps toward transforming their reality? I feel that my first year has been full of learning – now how do I convert some of my new found understanding into concrete actions that make a difference? Even that statement, I realize, reflects my own bias toward action as more important than presence.
I CAN SING?
I have loved my experience of Peruvian music here – not so much the cumbia/pop of Grupo 5 (the group of the moment) flowing out of the mototaxis and late-night parties, but my opportunity to help create music as part of a parish youth choir here. I have generally enjoyed singing in church in the past, but with an admittedly soft voice and very little confidence. Still, I was invited to join one of our two youth choirs and have seen significant improvement in both qualities. Inspired by the talented musicians in the choir and among our friends here, I have increased my guitar skills and taken up learning to play the zamponia and quena, two styles of traditional Andean flutes.
THE INCARNATE WORD SISTERS IN PERU ARE COOL
When we arrived to Jorge Chàvez airport in September, Sisters Silvia and Elia were there to meet us. Sister Juanita met our bus in Chimbote and gave us a several-day tour and orientation to our new city. Sister Pilar, Sister Hirayda and Sister Elia helped make possible the attendance of 14 Chimbote youth at a two-week youth ministry training course in Lima. The communities of Comas and San Juan Lurigancho made my stay in Lima in June – for a Peruvian reality course at the Bartholomew de las Casas Institute – both possible and a lot of fun, and Sister Teresa de Jesùs in Huancanè showed us great hospitality in cold Huancanè. Being a missionary here I have genuinely felt a welcome and included member of the IW congregational community, and I am very grateful for this and the friendships with sisters that have developed.
I LIKE MY LIFE HERE
The slow and patient rhythm, time to read and practice music during the afternoon siesta (the girls sleep a bit more than I do), the numerous chances to serve and accompany young people, not being in charge, continually improving my Spanish, friendships that have grown quickly in comparison to past experiences of moving to new places in the US, the cheap and flavorful food, the colorful chaos of the outdoor market. Chimbote is far from perfect, and there are moments when I strongly miss my family, my culture. I have been an Incarnate Word Missionary in Chimbote for almost one year of my two year term, and there is still so much to do and see and learn. I already know that when I leave I will be both excited to return home and sad to leave, to say goodbye to the people and the life I led. I do know too, however, that my experience here – given to me by the CCVI sisters – will help me live out my call as a Christian to live as a missionary of the gospel wherever I find myself in the future.
THE CHIMBOTE MISSIONARY LIFE (written August 4, 2008)
I found the Incarnate Word Missionaries ad in the Response catalog of an organization called Catholic Network of Volunteer Service, or CNVS, in the spring of 2007 as I was exploring options for living and serving in Latin America for an extended period. Two previous visits to Guatemala and several service trips with youth to Tijuana had triggered and sustained this calling, this tug on my heart that did not go away even amidst the busy and fulfilling life of youth ministry in a U.S. Catholic parish. This interior stirring, combined with a growing sense of the ignorance of most US citizens (and Catholics) of life outside the US and a desire to help build bridges and encourage increased solidarity in my fellow US Christians, was plenty of motivation for sending CNVS interest forms to about 10 congregational volunteer programs. About four later I had chosen – and had been chosen by – the Incarnate Word Missionary program of the Sisters of Charity of the Incarnate word.
Following a three-week orientation and retreat period in San Antonio, I embarked with my fellow Peru IWM`s – Emily and Nicole Tardio, from Cincinnati, Ohio – on our adventure into the unknown. Our daily sessions and discussions at the University of the Incarnate Word had included a wide range of topics, from cross-cultural sensitivity and culture shock to CCVI history, journaling, and recommendations for living together in community. Still, we grew more and more eager to actually see our new home, city, country – what would our new life be like? Despite the best efforts of Meg and Tere, we all three feel that the true orientation was `on the job,` so to speak. What have we learned these eleven months? From the unique perspective of this August Monday morning in Chimbote, I seek to share with you some reflections as I ponder this very worthy question.
RAW FISH ISN`T THAT BAD
Though fans of sushi might already have learned this, we have come to enjoy this concoction of raw fish (can also include shellfish), garlic, lime juice, ajì (hot pepper), sweet potato, yucca, and corn. The typical Chimbotano eats ceviche multiple times each week – if not every day – usually as a mid-morning snack, at home or one of the ubiquitous formal and informal (i.e. the clean and the hygienically questionable) cevicherìas.
MOPPING THE FLOOR IS A LOSING BATTLE
Dust is a reality of life here – it keeps coming, and coming, and coming. We began by mopping the whole house each week, only to judge the effort pointless – we succeeded only in moving the dirt around and removing a few footprints. Though we now have settled into sweeping once per week and mopping occasionally, we have developed a certain dust tolerance and never go barefoot in the house.
WHAT SMELL?
Warned numerous times before our arrival how Chimbote smells strongly of fish, we were pleasantly surprised not to smell anything out of the ordinary as we got off the bus for the first time, Sister Juanita there to meet us. Nowadays, we learned, fishing periods are limited due to past over-fishing – which is bad news for the local economy but good news for local lungs. Still, we have had a taste of `the smell of money`, as they say here, for a few short periods.
TIME IS RELATIVE
I have adjusted somewhat, but I don`t think I will ever fully get used to the flexible conception of time and schedules, i.e. `Let`s say the meeting starts at 7:00 so that we will be sure to start by 7:30.` Why not just say it starts at 7:30 and actually start then? I naively ask. Because then everyone won`t arrive until 8:00. On the positive side, I love how I can organize an outing with 5-10 friends with a day`s notice.
ENGLISH IS A DIFFICULT LANGUAGE TO LEARN
As one of our steady ministries here we offer a program of English classes within the parish, now with three different levels. A couple realizations: English pronunciation is difficult, we have many expressions that make no literal sense, and teaching English is a lot more complicated than just knowing how to speak it.
PERUVIANS LOVE TO DANCE TO LOUD MUSIC
What`s a party without dancing? Well, here it wouldn`t be a party at all. I enjoy the festive culture, but the noise level of parties (like from the `social and cultural association` across the street) and life in general has taken some getting used to. We can sleep through the dogs no problem by now, though the garbage truck`s horn remains impossible to work into one`s dreams.
OUR WORK AND PRESENCE IS APPRECIATED
Though my parish work in the US was more involved, took more time, and sometimes produced more tangible `results` than my efforts here, I have experienced genuine welcome and appreciation that in my own culture we often don`t take the time to express. Especially in my first couple months here (complicated by a dislocated elbow playing basketball) I felt like I was floating a bit – looking for where I would find a niche, where I would do my `work.` Now I have more projects in mind than there is time to start, yet have adopted a slower, more patient rhythm and expectations.
CHIMBOTE IS NOT A TOURIST CITY
A major struggle for the three of us has been the general lack of security here coupled with our glaring `non-anonymity.` With few gringos around, we attract attention (especially Emily and Nicole) wherever we go. Experiences of being robbed in the street have made us more watchful and careful as to when, where, and carrying which things we will walk around. Though we are more obvious targets due to the association of gringos with money, our friends who live here also are victims of crime and have to take precautions.
PROBLEMS ARE BIG, BUT PEOPLE WANT CHANGE
The struggles that many here face – individually and as a society – can seem overwhelming and an adequate response impossible: pollution and garbage, lack of work, poverty, the humble living conditions of some hospice patients, corrupt and inefficient government, inadequate health care services, despair and drug use, gangs, crime, etc. Still, especially among the young people I have met in my work at the parish, hope and desire for change are alive and well. How do I help them take their own steps toward transforming their reality? I feel that my first year has been full of learning – now how do I convert some of my new found understanding into concrete actions that make a difference? Even that statement, I realize, reflects my own bias toward action as more important than presence.
I CAN SING?
I have loved my experience of Peruvian music here – not so much the cumbia/pop of Grupo 5 (the group of the moment) flowing out of the mototaxis and late-night parties, but my opportunity to help create music as part of a parish youth choir here. I have generally enjoyed singing in church in the past, but with an admittedly soft voice and very little confidence. Still, I was invited to join one of our two youth choirs and have seen significant improvement in both qualities. Inspired by the talented musicians in the choir and among our friends here, I have increased my guitar skills and taken up learning to play the zamponia and quena, two styles of traditional Andean flutes.
THE INCARNATE WORD SISTERS IN PERU ARE COOL
When we arrived to Jorge Chàvez airport in September, Sisters Silvia and Elia were there to meet us. Sister Juanita met our bus in Chimbote and gave us a several-day tour and orientation to our new city. Sister Pilar, Sister Hirayda and Sister Elia helped make possible the attendance of 14 Chimbote youth at a two-week youth ministry training course in Lima. The communities of Comas and San Juan Lurigancho made my stay in Lima in June – for a Peruvian reality course at the Bartholomew de las Casas Institute – both possible and a lot of fun, and Sister Teresa de Jesùs in Huancanè showed us great hospitality in cold Huancanè. Being a missionary here I have genuinely felt a welcome and included member of the IW congregational community, and I am very grateful for this and the friendships with sisters that have developed.
I LIKE MY LIFE HERE
The slow and patient rhythm, time to read and practice music during the afternoon siesta (the girls sleep a bit more than I do), the numerous chances to serve and accompany young people, not being in charge, continually improving my Spanish, friendships that have grown quickly in comparison to past experiences of moving to new places in the US, the cheap and flavorful food, the colorful chaos of the outdoor market. Chimbote is far from perfect, and there are moments when I strongly miss my family, my culture. I have been an Incarnate Word Missionary in Chimbote for almost one year of my two year term, and there is still so much to do and see and learn. I already know that when I leave I will be both excited to return home and sad to leave, to say goodbye to the people and the life I led. I do know too, however, that my experience here – given to me by the CCVI sisters – will help me live out my call as a Christian to live as a missionary of the gospel wherever I find myself in the future.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Hace tiempo...
Greetings! Yes, I know it`s been a while since I last wrote, so here`s an attempt to catch up on what I`ve been up to. Before going further -- want to notify you of a few pictures of recent events (like our new water pump!) are posted on my photo site, link at right.
In some ways, this month since my return to Chimbote has been quite difficult. Without going into more detail than necessary or appropriate in this forum, I would be leaving out a lot if I didn`t tell you that Michi and I have broken up as of a couple weeks ago. After a good amount of soul searching, the decision was my initiative -- just a lot harder than I thought it would be to keep the relationship going from my end during this separation. We are remaining friends and in touch, trying to trust where God might be leading us in the future.
On other topics, a few highlights:
UPCOMING CHANGE OF HOUSEMATES
Time seems to have hurried by, as we near the 11-month anniversary of our arrival in Peru and Chimbote. August will be the final month for Nicole and Emily`s service at the hospice here. On September 9th they will leave Chimbote for a stay in the mountains of Huaraz, southwest of here, and then a trip and tour to the Amazon jungle region of Iquitos in NW Peru. Their flight back to Cincinatti will be September 19. Even before then, however, my new fellow missionaries and housemates will be arriving in Peru, even now they are in the midst of their three-week orientation at the Incarnate Word mother house in San Antonio, TX. Julie (Connecticut), Courtney (Minnesota), and Jane (Missouri) will fly into Lima on Monday, August 25. I will make the trip to Lima to meet them at the airport and, while we take care of their immigration paperwork, will help give a tour of major Lima sites during a 2-3 day stay, during which they will also be able to meet the IW sisters living in Lima. On the 28th or 29th we should all be in Chimbote, where Emily, Nicole, Sr. Juanita and I are planning a local orientation. I am looking forward to meeting my new companions, though will miss Nicole and Emily to be sure. Forming a new community with its own life and rhythms will be exciting but at the same time a period of transition no doubt, as we get to know each other. I hope, with a year of experience, to be able to soften their landing a bit.
In preparation for the arrival of Jane, Julie, and Courtney we have been making steady efforts to get the house in shape. Recent improvements/repairs have included a shiny new water pump installed by Eduardo, employee of our landlord Hector and veteran of multiple visits to repair the old pump. So, we now have consistent running water in the tap, which we long ago stopped taking for granted. The recent spell of collecting water in buckets twice daily, about 3-4 weeks, became quite routine. Filling everything and washing dishes before the water shut off at 8 am, filling tubs as needed in the afternoon between 4 and 5, bucket showers, etc. Other projects have included a major weed-chopping session in the back yard, work with handyman Oscar on the upstairs laundry sink drains and replacement of the switch of the downstairs shower, which had shorted out and no longer functioned. We still lack a general, thorough cleaning -- which we will do closer to the arrival date -- but with running water, warm showers, and draining sinks we are living the high life :).
IW REGIONAL ASSEMBLY, JULY 27-28
As part of the yearly assembly of Peru-based Incarnate Word sisters in Lima, we missionaries and lay associates were invited for a weekend of prayer, talks, sharing, and a fun talent show. As representative of our house (Nicole and Emily had just returned from a few-day trip to Cajamarca and couldn`t get away from their work) I put together a slide show summarizing our experiences -- good and challenging -- as missionaries in Chimbote. In the evening Saturday, each community was asked to share an artistic talent. There were a few songs, traditional dances, and I played the zampoña, a traditional Andean flute that I have begun learning. It was a festive visit with the sisters, several of which have become good friends. The day was part of their four-day meeting in which they reflected on their history in Peru and what their visions were for the future.
PARISH EVENTS
On August 9 I joined a parish bus up to the town of Pariacoto, a two-hour trip to the site where two Franciscan friars were martyred by the terrorist group Shining Path in 1991. August 9th is the anniversary of the event, and we shared a mass, two short hikes, and lunch in the peaceful town (I had been there twice before). Several of my friends from the Youth Council went along, and it was a good day. The same weekend, the youth council sponsored a breakfast fundraiser to raise money for two upcoming events: a talk this Saturday about the environmental problems in Chimbote and a youth concert on August. We made and sold chicken sandwiches (sandwiches can be eaten any time of day except for lunch) and `quaker` -- a cooked oatmeal drink with cinnamon, cloves, milk, and a little cocoa. We sold a sandwich and drink for 1.5 soles, about $0.50, and made around 120 soles profit. Considering average monthly wages for official jobs are 300-500 soles here, not too bad. To cap off the exhausting schedule, I helped by accompanying a Confirmation field trip to a local soccer field/park complex and had a couple choir rehearsals. I am happy to back in Chimbote more steadily, even though I also enjoyed my time away in June and July. Our new cycle of English classes is now in full swing, now with three levels and about 20 students -- three nights per week of class and one for conversation practice. I`ve recently located ground ginger and something called `Algarrobina` that resembles molasses, so have made ginger snaps and ginger bread for our conversation gatherings and a spice cake to celebrate Nicole`s birthday on July 23rd.
The youth council is excited about our environmental event this weekend -- we`ve visited local schools and several have committed to sending a science teacher with 20-30 students to participate.
Think I`ll close for now, next entry I hope to offer some one-year reflections and goals for the second half of my time here. God bless!
In some ways, this month since my return to Chimbote has been quite difficult. Without going into more detail than necessary or appropriate in this forum, I would be leaving out a lot if I didn`t tell you that Michi and I have broken up as of a couple weeks ago. After a good amount of soul searching, the decision was my initiative -- just a lot harder than I thought it would be to keep the relationship going from my end during this separation. We are remaining friends and in touch, trying to trust where God might be leading us in the future.
On other topics, a few highlights:
UPCOMING CHANGE OF HOUSEMATES
Time seems to have hurried by, as we near the 11-month anniversary of our arrival in Peru and Chimbote. August will be the final month for Nicole and Emily`s service at the hospice here. On September 9th they will leave Chimbote for a stay in the mountains of Huaraz, southwest of here, and then a trip and tour to the Amazon jungle region of Iquitos in NW Peru. Their flight back to Cincinatti will be September 19. Even before then, however, my new fellow missionaries and housemates will be arriving in Peru, even now they are in the midst of their three-week orientation at the Incarnate Word mother house in San Antonio, TX. Julie (Connecticut), Courtney (Minnesota), and Jane (Missouri) will fly into Lima on Monday, August 25. I will make the trip to Lima to meet them at the airport and, while we take care of their immigration paperwork, will help give a tour of major Lima sites during a 2-3 day stay, during which they will also be able to meet the IW sisters living in Lima. On the 28th or 29th we should all be in Chimbote, where Emily, Nicole, Sr. Juanita and I are planning a local orientation. I am looking forward to meeting my new companions, though will miss Nicole and Emily to be sure. Forming a new community with its own life and rhythms will be exciting but at the same time a period of transition no doubt, as we get to know each other. I hope, with a year of experience, to be able to soften their landing a bit.
In preparation for the arrival of Jane, Julie, and Courtney we have been making steady efforts to get the house in shape. Recent improvements/repairs have included a shiny new water pump installed by Eduardo, employee of our landlord Hector and veteran of multiple visits to repair the old pump. So, we now have consistent running water in the tap, which we long ago stopped taking for granted. The recent spell of collecting water in buckets twice daily, about 3-4 weeks, became quite routine. Filling everything and washing dishes before the water shut off at 8 am, filling tubs as needed in the afternoon between 4 and 5, bucket showers, etc. Other projects have included a major weed-chopping session in the back yard, work with handyman Oscar on the upstairs laundry sink drains and replacement of the switch of the downstairs shower, which had shorted out and no longer functioned. We still lack a general, thorough cleaning -- which we will do closer to the arrival date -- but with running water, warm showers, and draining sinks we are living the high life :).
IW REGIONAL ASSEMBLY, JULY 27-28
As part of the yearly assembly of Peru-based Incarnate Word sisters in Lima, we missionaries and lay associates were invited for a weekend of prayer, talks, sharing, and a fun talent show. As representative of our house (Nicole and Emily had just returned from a few-day trip to Cajamarca and couldn`t get away from their work) I put together a slide show summarizing our experiences -- good and challenging -- as missionaries in Chimbote. In the evening Saturday, each community was asked to share an artistic talent. There were a few songs, traditional dances, and I played the zampoña, a traditional Andean flute that I have begun learning. It was a festive visit with the sisters, several of which have become good friends. The day was part of their four-day meeting in which they reflected on their history in Peru and what their visions were for the future.
PARISH EVENTS
On August 9 I joined a parish bus up to the town of Pariacoto, a two-hour trip to the site where two Franciscan friars were martyred by the terrorist group Shining Path in 1991. August 9th is the anniversary of the event, and we shared a mass, two short hikes, and lunch in the peaceful town (I had been there twice before). Several of my friends from the Youth Council went along, and it was a good day. The same weekend, the youth council sponsored a breakfast fundraiser to raise money for two upcoming events: a talk this Saturday about the environmental problems in Chimbote and a youth concert on August. We made and sold chicken sandwiches (sandwiches can be eaten any time of day except for lunch) and `quaker` -- a cooked oatmeal drink with cinnamon, cloves, milk, and a little cocoa. We sold a sandwich and drink for 1.5 soles, about $0.50, and made around 120 soles profit. Considering average monthly wages for official jobs are 300-500 soles here, not too bad. To cap off the exhausting schedule, I helped by accompanying a Confirmation field trip to a local soccer field/park complex and had a couple choir rehearsals. I am happy to back in Chimbote more steadily, even though I also enjoyed my time away in June and July. Our new cycle of English classes is now in full swing, now with three levels and about 20 students -- three nights per week of class and one for conversation practice. I`ve recently located ground ginger and something called `Algarrobina` that resembles molasses, so have made ginger snaps and ginger bread for our conversation gatherings and a spice cake to celebrate Nicole`s birthday on July 23rd.
The youth council is excited about our environmental event this weekend -- we`ve visited local schools and several have committed to sending a science teacher with 20-30 students to participate.
Think I`ll close for now, next entry I hope to offer some one-year reflections and goals for the second half of my time here. God bless!
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Dulce Hogar (Home Sweet Home)
Greetings everyone! After an exciting period of three weeks in Lima for the Peruvian reality course, one week home, Michi`s visit to Chimbote, and then our two-week journey to southern Peru, it is good to be home again. A few new photos from our time in Chimbote and the first leg of our trip are available through the link at right.
Some highlights since my last entry:
FEAST OF ST. PETER, PATRON OF CHIMBOTE
Michi`s arrival coincided with the annual fiesta honoring St. Peter, the patron saint of fishing-centered Chimbote. Thus, our four days here were a bit more packed with activity than they would have been, but all worth it in the end. Besides accompanying me to a couple confirmation meetings, an English class, and on a morning of hospice visits, Michi was able to take in the fireworks and musical performances downtown on Saturday night and the nautical procession (with the image of St. Peter in the lead boat) to the mouth of the bay on Sunday morning. We arose early to be at the pier at 7:00 am for a place in line and found a place with other young people from the parish on a large fishing boat -- a number of the fishing boats load up passengers for the free cruise/procession. After a bit of waiting, St. Peter`s boat appeared and the rest of the boats followed to the mouth of the bay, where the bishop blessed the boats, fish, bay, etc. Our boat then took a forty-minute additional cruise out past the mouth and the White Islands on a day that had turned beautifully sunny after a foggy start. We closed the morning with ceviche at a local restaurant with some friends from the parish.
Besides the procession, we also joined a group of my friends to tour the vivero forestal (city park) and see the fair there, with products and animals for sale from many regional towns and farms. Also, my friend Lucciani helped us prepare ceviche in our house, accompanying us to the market to buy the raw materials and orchestrating the production once we got back home. Though the hot water shower head stopped working a couple days before Michi arrived, she was a good sport about it. And at least the pump was working to provide water in the tap -- during our trip it died once again and we are now back to collecting our daily water in buckets in the morning and evening.
AREQUIPA
After our full time in Chimbote, we boarding a bus for a two-part trip to Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru and reknowned for its white stone buildings. The overnight trip wasn`t great, and I got sick with diarhea and headache later in the day, causing us to miss the key attraction of the Santa Catalina convent. We were fortunate, though, to enjoy the hospitality and company of Isabel and Inma, two Spanish missionaries who I`d met in Lima at my course on Peruvian Reality. I slept most of our second day there before we took another night bus to Cuzco -- but before getting sick were able to cruise around the downtown and the square, even enjoying some live traditional music in a coffee shop.
CHIMBOTE
Back in Chimbote, I am preparing for the start of a new term of English classes -- we are adding one more night each week in order to offer a beginner`s course in addition to continuing with the two groups we had during the last term. I have a few ideas for projects in the upcoming year, and am excited for what lies ahead. Thanks for tuning in!
Some highlights since my last entry:
FEAST OF ST. PETER, PATRON OF CHIMBOTE
Michi`s arrival coincided with the annual fiesta honoring St. Peter, the patron saint of fishing-centered Chimbote. Thus, our four days here were a bit more packed with activity than they would have been, but all worth it in the end. Besides accompanying me to a couple confirmation meetings, an English class, and on a morning of hospice visits, Michi was able to take in the fireworks and musical performances downtown on Saturday night and the nautical procession (with the image of St. Peter in the lead boat) to the mouth of the bay on Sunday morning. We arose early to be at the pier at 7:00 am for a place in line and found a place with other young people from the parish on a large fishing boat -- a number of the fishing boats load up passengers for the free cruise/procession. After a bit of waiting, St. Peter`s boat appeared and the rest of the boats followed to the mouth of the bay, where the bishop blessed the boats, fish, bay, etc. Our boat then took a forty-minute additional cruise out past the mouth and the White Islands on a day that had turned beautifully sunny after a foggy start. We closed the morning with ceviche at a local restaurant with some friends from the parish.
Besides the procession, we also joined a group of my friends to tour the vivero forestal (city park) and see the fair there, with products and animals for sale from many regional towns and farms. Also, my friend Lucciani helped us prepare ceviche in our house, accompanying us to the market to buy the raw materials and orchestrating the production once we got back home. Though the hot water shower head stopped working a couple days before Michi arrived, she was a good sport about it. And at least the pump was working to provide water in the tap -- during our trip it died once again and we are now back to collecting our daily water in buckets in the morning and evening.
AREQUIPA
After our full time in Chimbote, we boarding a bus for a two-part trip to Arequipa, the second largest city in Peru and reknowned for its white stone buildings. The overnight trip wasn`t great, and I got sick with diarhea and headache later in the day, causing us to miss the key attraction of the Santa Catalina convent. We were fortunate, though, to enjoy the hospitality and company of Isabel and Inma, two Spanish missionaries who I`d met in Lima at my course on Peruvian Reality. I slept most of our second day there before we took another night bus to Cuzco -- but before getting sick were able to cruise around the downtown and the square, even enjoying some live traditional music in a coffee shop.
CHIMBOTE
Back in Chimbote, I am preparing for the start of a new term of English classes -- we are adding one more night each week in order to offer a beginner`s course in addition to continuing with the two groups we had during the last term. I have a few ideas for projects in the upcoming year, and am excited for what lies ahead. Thanks for tuning in!
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
May-June Photos...
Just a short entry to let you know that photos from a few May-June events are now posted on the photo link at right, including shots from our ceviche making, English class field trip, birthday party for friend Lenin at our house, and shots from my recent trip to Lima (see post below).
I`ve jumped right back into life here, with Confirmation classes, basketball, choir practice and singing at mass, and English classes. I`m also preparing to leave again soon, excited for the visit of Michi at the end of the week. The next blog entry will be in mid-July, after her visit: a few days here in Chimbote and then two weeks of travel to Arequipa, Cuzco/Machu Picchu, and Lake Titicaca. God bless, and happy independence day!
I`ve jumped right back into life here, with Confirmation classes, basketball, choir practice and singing at mass, and English classes. I`m also preparing to leave again soon, excited for the visit of Michi at the end of the week. The next blog entry will be in mid-July, after her visit: a few days here in Chimbote and then two weeks of travel to Arequipa, Cuzco/Machu Picchu, and Lake Titicaca. God bless, and happy independence day!
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
La Vida Limeña
Greetings to all! This entry comes to you from Lima, capital of Peru and home to about 8 million people (of about 28 million total in the country). Photos posted soon (don`t have the right cables with me).
INTRODUCTION TO THE PERUVIAN REALITY
I am in the closing week of a three week course called An Introduction to the Peruvian Reality, directed at foreign missionaries working in Peru and presented by the Bartholomew de las Casas Institute. The Bartolo, as they call it, was founded in 1974 as a space for theological reflection on (and organization of) the role of the church in the society of Latin America, specifically from the point of view of its founder Gustavo Gutierrez, one of the foundational figures of the Liberation Theology movement. Bartholomew de las Casas was a colonial era priest who was the first champion of the rights of the indigenous populations of the Spanish colonies. Besides the stimulating course material, I`ve enjoyed the chance to meet and get to know my fellow classmates, a mixture of 24 priests, religious, and lay missionaries from a variety of countries: Spain(4), Chile(4), Ireland(3), Canada(3), US(3 including me), Mexico(2), Switzerland(2), Portugal, The Congo, Germany, Peru.
SUMMARY OF TOPICS
Anyway, first a summary of the topics (for each topic, usually two each day, they have invited a different person who specializes in that field or area):
Week 1: Ancient and Modern History of Peru, the years of violence (1980-93), intro to social problems, economic reality, political context
Week 2: Multicultural/intercultural country, Indigenous communities of the Andes, communities of the Amazon region, women in Peru, psicological aspects of cultural immersion, globalization and the effects on Peru, Project of Decentralization of government, The Truth and Reconciliation Commission, Problems in Public Health Care
Week 3: Conflicts between Communities and the Mining Industry, The Media in Peru, Civil Society, Problems in Public Education, History of the Church in Latin America, The 2007 Conference of Latin American Bishops.
Tomorrow we have a class on Liberation Theology and group discussion, and on Friday the closing: evaluation, potluck (each person to bring something from their country--I think I`ll make apple pie.
IMPRESSIONS
Some initial themes/impressions:
- Peru is a very centralized country, centralized in Lima. It seems like two countries, Lima and the rest of Peru (which they call here `the provinces`). The life here is also distinct: much more ethnically diverse, much broader range of economic classes, obviously a lot bigger with more traffic, etc, more racism, some very nice areas that could be any US city (including the neighborhood where I am staying), a ton of chinese food restaurants. In addition, I realize more the relative absence of the government outside of Lima in providing basic services -- many rural areas of Peru, and especially the jungle, are severely neglected.
- The War of the Pacific, between Peru and Chile in 1870´s, severely marked the national psyche. Peru lost valuable territory in the south and to this day has a chip on its shoulder against Chile, esp in Lima it seems (haven`t noticed this in Chimbote). Partly it`s because of current Chilean capital in Peru and experiences of racism that Peruvians experience when they travel there. Plus, Peru almost always loses to Chile in soccer.
- Peru has a rich pre-colonial history, of which the most recent, the Incas, were only one small part of. This history leaves a legacy of diversity which was augmented by Spanish colonization, importation of slaves, immigrations of Chinese (late 1800`s) and Japanese (early 1900`s) workers, and Italian/German immigrations. The geographical diversity of coastal desert, high Andes, and Amazon jungle adds to the variety. In general though, the diversity is seen as a problem instead of an asset and there seems to be a general lack of national identity and unity.
- The years of terrorist violence here were tough and brutal, and continue to leave a legacy of mistrust among people. Between 1980 and 2,000 about 70,000 people, mostly indigenous, were killed by either the Maoist Shining Path rebels or the armed forces.
- Like most things left to the responsibility of the federal government, public education is very poor here. Teachers are generally not well trained and lack basic resources such as textbooks. Corruption within the government is high in general, but is the highest in the education system. Education is generally dictation, copying, and memorization. Private schools, of which there are multitudes, are generally better but are out of the reach of many. There was a national forum on education in 2004 which produced a 15 year plan for overhauling the system, but after a grand ceremony and promises the current president (Alan Garcia, of which I`ve heard few positive things except that he is a good speaker) has forgotten all about it.
- The economy of Peru has seen a steady period of growth the past 7 years, fueled by exports of the mining industry, dominated by international/foreign companies. However, this growth has not changed the reality of life for the majority of the population and has not resulted in any substantial increase in badly needed investment in public infrastructure (as our own dirt streets of Chimbote illustrate). The government refuses to tax at a reasonable level the huge profits of foreign mining companies for fear of driving them away, while these companies increasingly conflict with local rural communities over land rights, with the state usually intervening on behalf of the business interest.
- Peru, as many countries, has seen a huge immigration of its population to urban areas in the last 40 years. The outskirts of Lima are settlements on dry, desert hills, with services arriving only years later.
- Politically, there is no viable political opposition to the party in power, APRA, which is the only national political party. Only in 2002 were state governors elected for the first time, and national congress members are not elected by a particular area, leaving constituents with no person directly speaking for their needs. Lacking meaningful channels for dissent, protests and conflicts (sometimes violent) break out at the rate of 60-70 per month nationally -- currently mining workers are making news by blocking the Pan American Highway in south Peru and taking policemen hostage.
- The Amazon jungle comprises 70% of Peruvian territory and holds 10% of its population. Access to the money economy and to state services is severely limited for the 50 distinct cultures of varying demographic size that inhabit this area.
- The current Peruvian Church as a whole is very conservative and very much in line with the interests of power and wealth, with the exception of a couple bishops who take isolated stands to work for the interests of their people. Still, the message of the most recent council of Latin American Bishops (Aparecida, Brazil, 2007) -- with the utmost support of Pope Benedict XVI -- strongly supports the renovation of the 1960`s, that the Church is called to be poor, missionary and paschal, implicit in its mission is identification with the marginalized of the world.
Personally, this wider view of Peruvian society has caused me to see my role here as larger than just helping my parish have a successful youth program. I hope to help and walk with our youth as they take concrete steps to change their society for the better. An additional benefit is all the practice in listening to and speaking Spanish here, both in the course (all given in Spanish) and with the sisters at the house.
OTHER ACTIVITIES IN LIMA
- With my friend Luzeliana who I met at our YM training course in February, I have taken a bus up Cerro San Cristòbal for a 360 degree view of Lima at night, made a brief stop at a discoteca, and visited the very beautiful, green, clean Park of the Waters, which is a series of lighted, creative fountains -- including one with a light show in the spray.
- Sister Pilar, the 37-year-old superior in Peru, had a hemorage in her stomach the first Wednesday I was here, passing out and vomiting blood. She was in the hospital a few days but is now at the house recovering well, but we made a couple visits in the afternoons and I donated blood. Each clinic or hospital has its own blood bank, and when you withdraw you have to find people to donate replacement blood. The technician, Naida, is studying English and asked me, while the bag was filling, if we could practice talking a bit. :)
- Sister Mirella and I went to see Prince Caspian in Spanish (my first movie theatre experience in Peru) and I had the chance to visit both the other houses that the Incarnate Word Sisters have here: Comas is on the edge of the city as the dry mountains begin, and the novitiate house is in San Juan Lurigancho. It has been a good opportunity to get to know many of them who are based in Lima better, including Elisa, Mirella, Gladys, Lourdes, Rosaleen, Pilar, Fabiola, Anita, with a bonus visit of Sister Lourdes from San Antonio.
- The first week also saw the visit of Carlos and Brandon from the IW headquarters in San Antonio, here to bring and install a video conference system in the house to allow international meetings without all the travel. They had a couple hangups, however, in that the firewall was confiscated for taxes at the airport and another key item (I don`t remember the name) burned up from the higher voltage. Both will eventually be available after taxes are paid, but Carlos and Brandon will have to make another trip south. An aside to this story is that on the way to the airport in a combi to meet the guys at the airport, Sister Elisa and I (we were going because Pilar had just entered the hospital) the police stopped the van and asked all inside for their identity documents. Neither Elisa (who is from Mexico) or I were carrying our ID`s, which she explained hopefully to the officer. I was a bit nervous for a moment, but he thankfully just reprimanded us but didn`t take any action.
- Jorge and Angelica, two Columban Lay Missionaries from Chile, invited me to their house out on the end of Lima for lunch this past Sunday. Jorge met me in town here and we made the 1.5 hour bus trip to spend an enjoyable afternoon with them and other young missionaries: Claudia and Teresa (Chilean Columban missionaries serving in a town near Cuzco, also in my course), John and Irma (Columban Missionaries from the Philipines with over 7 years here in Peru, and Miguel (German volunteer doing his obligatory national service for a year). The four Columban Missionaries lived together for one year in Chile in preparation and study, and just started a three year Peruvian commitment in January. Anyway, it was a good visit with dedicated, laughing people all around my age or a bit younger.
- Roberto, a friend from Chimbote, was in Lima the first weekend and we met a classmate of mine to visit the National Museum on Saturday. The museum was mostly closed with only a couple rooms open, so after a short visit Roberto and I ventured on three different buses to the ruins of Pachacamac, south of Lima, a temple site of various cultures 400-1500`s AD.
Well, if you`ve made it this far -- thank you! I will try to write sooner next time, so as to spread it out a little more. Next entry once again from Chimbote.
INTRODUCTION TO THE PERUVIAN REALITY
I am in the closing week of a three week course called An Introduction to the Peruvian Reality, directed at foreign missionaries working in Peru and presented by the Bartholomew de las Casas Institute. The Bartolo, as they call it, was founded in 1974 as a space for theological reflection on (and organization of) the role of the church in the society of Latin America, specifically from the point of view of its founder Gustavo Gutierrez, one of the foundational figures of the Liberation Theology movement. Bartholomew de las Casas was a colonial era priest who was the first champion of the rights of the indigenous populations of the Spanish colonies. Besides the stimulating course material, I`ve enjoyed the chance to meet and get to know my fellow classmates, a mixture of 24 priests, religious, and lay missionaries from a variety of countries: Spain(4), Chile(4), Ireland(3), Canada(3), US(3 including me), Mexico(2), Switzerland(2), Portugal, The Congo, Germany, Peru.
SUMMARY OF TOPICS
Anyway, first a summary of the topics (for each topic, usually two each day, they have invited a different person who specializes in that field or area):
Week 1: Ancient and Modern History of Peru, the years of violence (1980-93), intro to social problems, economic reality, political context
Week 2: Multicultural/intercultural country, Indigenous communities of the Andes, communities of the Amazon region, women in Peru, psicological aspects of cultural immersion, globalization and the effects on Peru, Project of Decentralization of government, The Truth and Reconciliation Commission, Problems in Public Health Care
Week 3: Conflicts between Communities and the Mining Industry, The Media in Peru, Civil Society, Problems in Public Education, History of the Church in Latin America, The 2007 Conference of Latin American Bishops.
Tomorrow we have a class on Liberation Theology and group discussion, and on Friday the closing: evaluation, potluck (each person to bring something from their country--I think I`ll make apple pie.
IMPRESSIONS
Some initial themes/impressions:
- Peru is a very centralized country, centralized in Lima. It seems like two countries, Lima and the rest of Peru (which they call here `the provinces`). The life here is also distinct: much more ethnically diverse, much broader range of economic classes, obviously a lot bigger with more traffic, etc, more racism, some very nice areas that could be any US city (including the neighborhood where I am staying), a ton of chinese food restaurants. In addition, I realize more the relative absence of the government outside of Lima in providing basic services -- many rural areas of Peru, and especially the jungle, are severely neglected.
- The War of the Pacific, between Peru and Chile in 1870´s, severely marked the national psyche. Peru lost valuable territory in the south and to this day has a chip on its shoulder against Chile, esp in Lima it seems (haven`t noticed this in Chimbote). Partly it`s because of current Chilean capital in Peru and experiences of racism that Peruvians experience when they travel there. Plus, Peru almost always loses to Chile in soccer.
- Peru has a rich pre-colonial history, of which the most recent, the Incas, were only one small part of. This history leaves a legacy of diversity which was augmented by Spanish colonization, importation of slaves, immigrations of Chinese (late 1800`s) and Japanese (early 1900`s) workers, and Italian/German immigrations. The geographical diversity of coastal desert, high Andes, and Amazon jungle adds to the variety. In general though, the diversity is seen as a problem instead of an asset and there seems to be a general lack of national identity and unity.
- The years of terrorist violence here were tough and brutal, and continue to leave a legacy of mistrust among people. Between 1980 and 2,000 about 70,000 people, mostly indigenous, were killed by either the Maoist Shining Path rebels or the armed forces.
- Like most things left to the responsibility of the federal government, public education is very poor here. Teachers are generally not well trained and lack basic resources such as textbooks. Corruption within the government is high in general, but is the highest in the education system. Education is generally dictation, copying, and memorization. Private schools, of which there are multitudes, are generally better but are out of the reach of many. There was a national forum on education in 2004 which produced a 15 year plan for overhauling the system, but after a grand ceremony and promises the current president (Alan Garcia, of which I`ve heard few positive things except that he is a good speaker) has forgotten all about it.
- The economy of Peru has seen a steady period of growth the past 7 years, fueled by exports of the mining industry, dominated by international/foreign companies. However, this growth has not changed the reality of life for the majority of the population and has not resulted in any substantial increase in badly needed investment in public infrastructure (as our own dirt streets of Chimbote illustrate). The government refuses to tax at a reasonable level the huge profits of foreign mining companies for fear of driving them away, while these companies increasingly conflict with local rural communities over land rights, with the state usually intervening on behalf of the business interest.
- Peru, as many countries, has seen a huge immigration of its population to urban areas in the last 40 years. The outskirts of Lima are settlements on dry, desert hills, with services arriving only years later.
- Politically, there is no viable political opposition to the party in power, APRA, which is the only national political party. Only in 2002 were state governors elected for the first time, and national congress members are not elected by a particular area, leaving constituents with no person directly speaking for their needs. Lacking meaningful channels for dissent, protests and conflicts (sometimes violent) break out at the rate of 60-70 per month nationally -- currently mining workers are making news by blocking the Pan American Highway in south Peru and taking policemen hostage.
- The Amazon jungle comprises 70% of Peruvian territory and holds 10% of its population. Access to the money economy and to state services is severely limited for the 50 distinct cultures of varying demographic size that inhabit this area.
- The current Peruvian Church as a whole is very conservative and very much in line with the interests of power and wealth, with the exception of a couple bishops who take isolated stands to work for the interests of their people. Still, the message of the most recent council of Latin American Bishops (Aparecida, Brazil, 2007) -- with the utmost support of Pope Benedict XVI -- strongly supports the renovation of the 1960`s, that the Church is called to be poor, missionary and paschal, implicit in its mission is identification with the marginalized of the world.
Personally, this wider view of Peruvian society has caused me to see my role here as larger than just helping my parish have a successful youth program. I hope to help and walk with our youth as they take concrete steps to change their society for the better. An additional benefit is all the practice in listening to and speaking Spanish here, both in the course (all given in Spanish) and with the sisters at the house.
OTHER ACTIVITIES IN LIMA
- With my friend Luzeliana who I met at our YM training course in February, I have taken a bus up Cerro San Cristòbal for a 360 degree view of Lima at night, made a brief stop at a discoteca, and visited the very beautiful, green, clean Park of the Waters, which is a series of lighted, creative fountains -- including one with a light show in the spray.
- Sister Pilar, the 37-year-old superior in Peru, had a hemorage in her stomach the first Wednesday I was here, passing out and vomiting blood. She was in the hospital a few days but is now at the house recovering well, but we made a couple visits in the afternoons and I donated blood. Each clinic or hospital has its own blood bank, and when you withdraw you have to find people to donate replacement blood. The technician, Naida, is studying English and asked me, while the bag was filling, if we could practice talking a bit. :)
- Sister Mirella and I went to see Prince Caspian in Spanish (my first movie theatre experience in Peru) and I had the chance to visit both the other houses that the Incarnate Word Sisters have here: Comas is on the edge of the city as the dry mountains begin, and the novitiate house is in San Juan Lurigancho. It has been a good opportunity to get to know many of them who are based in Lima better, including Elisa, Mirella, Gladys, Lourdes, Rosaleen, Pilar, Fabiola, Anita, with a bonus visit of Sister Lourdes from San Antonio.
- The first week also saw the visit of Carlos and Brandon from the IW headquarters in San Antonio, here to bring and install a video conference system in the house to allow international meetings without all the travel. They had a couple hangups, however, in that the firewall was confiscated for taxes at the airport and another key item (I don`t remember the name) burned up from the higher voltage. Both will eventually be available after taxes are paid, but Carlos and Brandon will have to make another trip south. An aside to this story is that on the way to the airport in a combi to meet the guys at the airport, Sister Elisa and I (we were going because Pilar had just entered the hospital) the police stopped the van and asked all inside for their identity documents. Neither Elisa (who is from Mexico) or I were carrying our ID`s, which she explained hopefully to the officer. I was a bit nervous for a moment, but he thankfully just reprimanded us but didn`t take any action.
- Jorge and Angelica, two Columban Lay Missionaries from Chile, invited me to their house out on the end of Lima for lunch this past Sunday. Jorge met me in town here and we made the 1.5 hour bus trip to spend an enjoyable afternoon with them and other young missionaries: Claudia and Teresa (Chilean Columban missionaries serving in a town near Cuzco, also in my course), John and Irma (Columban Missionaries from the Philipines with over 7 years here in Peru, and Miguel (German volunteer doing his obligatory national service for a year). The four Columban Missionaries lived together for one year in Chile in preparation and study, and just started a three year Peruvian commitment in January. Anyway, it was a good visit with dedicated, laughing people all around my age or a bit younger.
- Roberto, a friend from Chimbote, was in Lima the first weekend and we met a classmate of mine to visit the National Museum on Saturday. The museum was mostly closed with only a couple rooms open, so after a short visit Roberto and I ventured on three different buses to the ruins of Pachacamac, south of Lima, a temple site of various cultures 400-1500`s AD.
Well, if you`ve made it this far -- thank you! I will try to write sooner next time, so as to spread it out a little more. Next entry once again from Chimbote.
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