Thursday, January 17, 2008

Vida Cotidiana en Chimbote

Greetings once again, thanks for checking in. We have had a bit of a change in the schedule of our house, as Nicole and Emily have rotated to work within the hospice itself for the next two months. This entails eight-hour shifts, so that two people are on duty to care for patients around the clock. Emily has been on mornings (6-2) and afternoons (2-10), and Nicole primarily on nights (10-6). I think the schedule and lack of sleep has worn her out a bit, as yesterday she came down with the stomach flu of some sort, but is feeling slightly better today.

To start, a few things about daily life in Chimbote:
- We are appreciating a steady supply of water, as during the last part of December our pump was working only sporadically. Water comes into a cistern from the city system in the morning and the afternoon, and then our pump lifts it to a water tank on the roof, which provides pressure (a mini-version of those small town water towers in the flat plain states). Our landlord came to fix the pump (a problem with the pressure), so we now have a steady supply.
- Showering -- initially it was the race to beat the ´click´, which meant that the electric showerhead (sounds dangerous, I know) had shut off after its five minute limit and the rest of the shower would be cold. Also, if you put your hand or head too close to the shower head, a slight electric shock would remind you not to do so. This description is in the past tense because a couple weeks ago the electric shower heads stopped working altogether, so we join the many here who have no hot water at all. We are actually getting used to it, and find that are showers take less time :). When I commented that at least it was summer, so the cold showers wouldn`t matter so much, Nicole said that she was not so optimistic. The sun, though, because the tank is black, does warm the water somewhat during the middle of the day.
- Running `The Cerro` (hill, mountain). I`ve begun running 2-3 times per week with a 2-4 friends from the parish -- Roger, Mariela, Milagros, and a former volunteer here from Germany named Sebastian. The run involves a fifteen-minute run to a big sand dune, which we climb for a beautiful view of farms, mountains, etc. Next, a series of up-and-back forward-backward sets on top of a neighboring sand hill before returning home. There are a lot more people running in general than when I arrived with the warmer weather (and people wanting to get in shape to go to the beach).
- The daily harvest of trash. Most days, after running, I practice for a job in Disneyland by sweeping up the trash in front of our house with one of those dustpans with a handle, then sweep the sidewalk, then water the road in front of the house to help keep the dust down. If they ever paved the streets here, they would save a lot of water and people would have to come up with another early-morning ritual.
- It is a good idea to bring a rag to meetings at the parish, so as to wipe the dust off the chairs and benches before the meeting starts. When I forget, I sometimes use my hat :). No need to arrive early, though (except for our English class), because if I arrive on time I will likely be the only person there.
- Maybe because so few people write letters, the envelopes here do not have that handy lick-seal strip. Not to fear, though, as the post office provides a jar of a rubber-cement type substance with a pen for spreading. Careful not to put too much though, so that the Christmas cards you send will not stick together.
- In the US it is legally risky to touch a female young person at all -- here you kiss them all on the cheek. All women you meet, actually, expect this as a greeting and farewell, even if you only exchange a few seconds of dialogue. Women also greet each other with a kiss, though men seem to have dropped the habit and make do with a handshake upon greeting each other. In meetings this can be a bit disruptive, as when someone comes in late (after the meeting has begun), they often will not sneak in the back but still may make the rounds to greet everyone.
- A general confusion about Mass protocal seems to exist here, for example when to sit, when to stand, when to kneel -- likely to be all three at any given time during the Eucharist (and kneeling is a bit of a sacrifice, with padless kneelers). Also, even more than in the US, the Our Father is recited at about 20 different rates. Most confusing is the kiss/handshake/arm grab/shoulder tap/two-arm shoulder tap of peace. Required is flexibility and reading the intended actions of the other, since its hard to know what`s coming. :)
- At government offices (as when we went to have our dental records taken and the police station), they give you a form and you have to leave to make your own copies down the street and bring them back.
- We think that its in the Peruvian genes to be able to whistle loud and long, with no help from your hands. This ability (or a sharp hissing sound) can be put to good use to call out to a friend in the upper window, to an acquaintance down the street, or the waitress serving your table in a restaurant.


In other news...
- I am continuing with one of the choirs here, though not with the guitar -- just a member of the base section. We went on a paseo (outing) to a local park all day Sunday, where we played soccer, walked around the lake, ate lunch, and played a number of impromptu youth-ministry type games. It was a lot of fun, though I was quite dusty, hot and tired by the end. I will likely actually sing with them during Mass for the first time this coming Sunday.
- We have begun the big job of visiting and attempting a survey of parish youth, with a couple pairs of helpers to start with. This is always interesting work for me -- very `inefficient`, but rewarding and a great opportunity to learn. Also, we are preparing for a trip to Lima January 27-February 8 with 15 youth and young adults (already involved in or leaders in parish groups) from the parish for youth ministry leadership training/workshops. Thanks to several of you who have responded to my or Michi`s request to sponsor this experience for one or more youth. None of them have ever had this sort of opportunity, and they are excited. The job of arranging a two-week trip to a city of 8 million people in a foreign country is at times a bit daunting, though the IW sisters in Lima are helping me coordinate lodging and food down there. Legal paperwork for the trip, unlike for a similar trip with US youth, is nearly nonexistent. I will likely not write while we are there, but will attempt a short update before we leave.
- Our English class is going well, and several of the students are becoming good friends. The end of our first term we will celebrate with a class trip to the beach on the 26th. There is a huge desire to learn English here, especially among folks who are studying at the university or are young professionals. I have been struck by the thought that even my ability to speak English, now the international language, is an advantage that many people don`t have. Offering to share this ability with others here is one way that I am uniquely qualified to serve while I am here.
- Our post-Confirmation youth are organizing and putting on four-week summer classes for youth (called Vacaciònes Ùtiles, Useful Vacation), in such subjects as computers, chess, art, dance, and first aid. I and one of our students are also offering a twice-weekly English class for kids -- all of this is scheduled to begin next week.
- After a three week break over the holidays, I returned last week to accompanying hospice workers one day during the week. I sometimes feel initially that I don`t have enough time, but am always happy to have had the experience after it is over.

Well, I think I`ll sign off now -- until next time.

Monday, January 7, 2008

¡Felíz Año!

Greetings and happy new year! The days seem to have gone quickly since I last wrote, but in the meantime we have welcomed a new year -- one that I will spend entirely in Peru. As usual, some updates, notes, and random thoughts about the celebration of the new year in Peru:

- The most dramatic is the making and burning of muñecos, which are life-sized dolls roughly sewed together out of old clothes, stuffed animals, rags, etc. and then stuffed with wood shavings, small fireworks, and maybe more old clothes. As midnight approaches, the muñecos (literally ´dolls´) are set on chairs or propped up in the street with sticks and doused with gasoline or kerosene. At midnight, the dolls are lit on fire and additional fireworks are set off. As I looked down the street from the house of friends who had invited me over, I could see a series of dolls in the street burning away, giving off smoke that surely was at least a little toxic. The motivation behind the act is actually sound -- the doll made of worn out clothes symbolizes the negative things of the previous year that are now burned away to make room for what hopefully will be a brighter year to come.

- The parish holds mass at 9:00 pm on new year´s eve, and people were surprised that we didn´t do the same. A joint choir sang, and attendance was quite good. After mass, about 20-25 youth/young adults gathered outside the parish to burn the muñeco that the post-confirmation youth had made, a project which I had helped with (and even contributed a shirt to). One of the guys had his guitar, and we sang in the warm glow of the burning doll, giving off smoke from the synthetic jacket it was wearing. It was another very memorable moment in my experience thus far. A family that I have gotten to know invited me to dinner and a party at their home after the burning, and we ate dinner at about 11:30 pm, interrupted at 12:00 to go out in the street to see the burning dolls, the fireworks, and to greet with ´Felíz Año´ the various neighbors and relatives that lived nearby. At dinner we followed the custom of eating twelve grapes, one for good luck in each of the coming 12 months. Afterward, we danced with the family and a few friends that came by. A difference here from the US is that the parties begin after 12:00, at about 1:30 (I received two invitations to additional parties that began at this time, but left the gathering at 3:30 very tired and ready for bed. Many people return home at 7 or 8 am and just sleep the whole next day.

- One custom that I didn´t participate in was that of wearing yellow underwear (on the 31st I saw piles of it for sale in the local market). The few folks here I asked about it, however, didn´t know the reason or history behind the practice.

- It is becoming very hot here during the days, and trips to the beach are on everyone´s mind. There are a few beaches within a half hour of Chimbote, so I am sure that we will soon be making trips there with friends. At the least, our English class will take an end-of-cycle trip there on January 26.

- As I mentioned a while back, we are gathering involved youth of the parish to attend a youth ministry leadership course in Lima from January 28-February 8. There should be a group of about 10 of us, which should be a great learning experience for all of us and excellent practice for my Spanish. Some of you have already indicated your interested in sponsoring youth ($70 all told for the course, travel, lodging) --you can contact me at tschmidt19@hotmail.com if you want more information. We would have the participants write you afterward to share about the experience.

-- My arm is much better -- I played a fun game of full-court basketball two days ago with no damage. :)

It´s time for me to go -- God bless!

Thursday, December 27, 2007

Navidad 2007

I don`t have much time left here to write today, but I wanted to say a brief, share a few things, and let you know that there are some Christmas photos posted that you can access using the photo link at the right.

Though my Christmas day itself was spent largely feeling sick and in bed with a fever, the celebration as a whole was a memorable one, though different in many ways from my usual Christmas in the US. Some notes:

- Here the day of celebration is the 24th, la noche buena, and many here will tell that the 24th is indeed Christmas. Celebrations include gathering with family for a late evening meal (after the 9 pm mass if the family goes), and then for many a party late into the night -- followed by sleeping most of the day on the 25th. I took a walk at about 7:00 am Christmas morning and looking in a few open doors along the way I saw people still dancing away to loud music. Indeed, the party across the street from us didn`t end until about 11:00 am.

- I had the privilege of being involved in the Christmas play put on by the youth of the Confirmation program, and even filled in an empty spot as San Josè. We performed amidst a lot of noise and distraction at a chocolatada on December 23 for children of our poorest parish neighborhood, and at the beginning of Christmas eve Mass on the 24th in the church (see photos). For the Christmas eve version we had more attention but were missing several key players, so the hour leading up to the event was a bit harried. Still, we recruited a couple extras, had some play multiple roles, and just plain skipped some lines -- but still we received several compliments on how it turned out and it was a bonding experience for those who did participate in either of the shows. It was a powerful moment for me, sitting with ´Marìa´ at the altar on Christmas eve, the wise men and shepherds gathered around, in Peru and south America, so far away from home. Mass was festive and afterward we were invited to dinner at a friend´s home (myself and the six Tardio family members). It was generous of them, but Emily and her brother ended up getting food poisening from something, we think a cold cucumber salad.

- The Tardios enjoyed their visit other than the sickness, and I was able to join them for lunch one afternoon at a nice restaurant outside of town. It was an enclosed outdoor courtyard, very pleasant except for the exceedingly loud music an singing entertainment for a graduation party that was also there for the afternoon (the school year just ended last Friday for most). We could hardly hear each other talk, but still laughed at the 1/2 cuy (guinea pig) that Adam, the youngest brother, ordered -- it came laid out in full on the plate, head seemingly screaming from its painful death not long ago. :)

- The chocolatada was largely a success, and I was proud of how so many of our youth worked so hard to help make it a good event: the parish dance group, the choirs leading songs and games, confirmation group organizing a toy/food drive and putting on the Christmas play, everyone helping to distribute paneton (sweet bread) and hot chocolate. The gift distribution at the end grew quite chaotic, however, and the parents/children refused to pay attention to or heed any attempt at organizing the process -- so the final moments were a bit tense. Fr. Carlos grew so frustrated that he (understandably, in my opinion) decided not to raffle off the gift baskets that we had prepared and brought but to give them to others. I was exhausted at the close, but had only a few minutes before heading to meet with youth at the posada of one of the sectors, where we had a good initial meeting of about 10 youth and young adults who want to help organized future activities.

- Our trip to Lima was not good for our sleep schedule (the night bus down was extremely uncomfortable), but we did secure our residency cards, valid for one year (see photo). We stayed at one of the sisters´ houses in Lima and returned on Friday evening. The immigration office was actually relatively well-organized and efficient, the employees helpful.

- I have had some time these past two days to gather some thoughts for the summer, which is just beginning here, and am excited about some ideas for the coming year. Michi and I have also discussed connected San Francisco and St. Mary`s as sister parishes, a desire that the social justice commission in Corvallis has. The opportunities for helping the two communities learn from and assist each other are numerous, and I will keep you posted. I still plan to take a group of jovenes to youth ministry training course in Lima January 28th for a week, and the cost details I will communicate soon to those of you who mentioned previously that you would be interested in assisting.

- I was listening to a Christian song from one of my CD´s recently called ´Remember Me´ in which God asks his follower to remember Him in various moments of his life -- prayer, in Church, teaching religion, reading the Bible -- since God is so faithful at remembering us. It struck me all of a sudden though I´d listened to the song many times before (by Mark Schultz), that there was a gaping hole in the message. At such times of peace and communion with God it is relatively easy to remember Him, it´s in the struggles and pain, in loneliness and in viewing poverty, when you or your friends are victims of attempted robbery (while I was running this Monday, no harm done in the end) when it is at times difficult to remember the hope and the love of God. During the everyday decisions of how I spend my time and money I can so easily forget about God. So my prayer as we celebrate this Christmas is to remember more often, and decide with God in mind.

I will write again soon. God bless!
-

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

Navidad se acerca

Greetings! Emily, Nicole and I travel by bus through the night to Lima tonight in order to complete the final step (we hope!) in obtaining our Peruvian residency cards, called Carnets. I have a little time in between preparations for the trip and other Christmas related activities here to give a brief update on the last week and a half.
- First, my arm and elbow are feeling very much better. I have regained the flexing and straightening capability and there just remains a bit of tightness at the extremes of each. What I think will be my last appointment with Lina, the physical therapist here, will be Monday morning the 24th. A good Christmas present to be back to normal (as normal as I was before, any).

- Rehearsals with post-Confirmation youth continue for our Christmas play continue nightly this week, as we are presenting it this Saturday as part of a chocolatada that the youth are putting on for the children of Santo Domingo, the poorest sector of our parish. A chocolatada is an event that happens all over during the Christmas season, and the main elements are some sort of show or event, paneton (sweet bread with fruit), and of course hot chocolate. Go into any store and you`ll see people buying cases of evaporated milk and the Cuzco chocolate bars. I attended with Nicole and Emily a chocolatada at the Hospice last Friday afternoon, offered to children related to hospice patients. There was a clown and assistant (pretty girl with red skirt and hat, looking somewhat like a cheerleader) with games and dances, bread and chocolate, and wrapped gifts for everyone. The afternoon was quite pleasant. Anyway, the 7:00 pm rehearsals begin at around 7:30 or 8:00, complicated by the fact that many of the youth have high school or university exams, as this is the end of the school year for them. I designed the script using the story of St. Francis starting the tradition of the Nativity Scenes with the Gospel and prophet elements of the Christmas story, and just last night received the part of Joseph, since the fifteen or so youth we have participating are not enough to fill out the roles. Reminds me of my days at St. Francis in Burney...

- Robberies are definitely a hot topic recently, as another hospice team was robbed on one of their routes and the workers are generally tense about going to certain areas. Others have their own stories of either break-ins or close calls on the street. Needless to say, we are carrying with us only the minimum and try to be very aware of our surroundings.

- I have continued with visiting youth, this week concentrating on a new sector of the parish which will hold a brainstorming meeting this Saturday in conjunction with their Posada. Having a real donkey for Mary to ride -- there are donkeys all over around here -- I`m sure will add to the authenticity of the recreation of Mary and Joseph`s search for a place to stay on the first Christmas Eve. Anyway, we don`t have a good list or addresses for youth, so we are having to be creative. Billy, fifteen-year-old son of one of the parish council members, who lives in the sector, is accompanying me on the visits. We basically ask folks on the streets if they know Catholic youth who live in the neighborhood, and go from there. Billy`s family raises cuy (guinea pigs) in cages on their back patio, and his mom introduced me to the dish since she just happened to have some prepared the evening I was visiting (suerte!). Though it sounds cliche, cuy reminds me of chicken. Obviously smaller, and with a bit more fat. His mom served herself the head, with teeth and all visible, and I commented that I was happy not to have recieved that body part. Cuy is considered a delicacy here, but I didn`t find it that special. And the mental picture of eating a rodent will keep me from seeking out this dish on my own. :)

- The weather is warming up here -- quite hot during the middle of the day. Many people are talking of trips to the beach come January. Still, people ask me if I`m not cold during the comfortably cool evenings. All in what you`re used to, I guess.

- I am feeling more in the `Christmas spirit` these last days. The arrival of some Christmas CD`s from Michi and Christmas sheet music for guitar from my mom have helped. We also had a Christmas theme for our Monday English class, reading and studying `Twas the Night Before Christmas and then singing Christmas carols. We also made frosted sugar cut-out cookies (round, since we are without cutters) to share with the class, which were a big hit and brought back our own Christmas baking memories.

- Financially, I realize more that my $80 per month, though definitely a bit above average in spending money for Chimbote, has to be spent carefully -- especially in a month like December with additional things I find the desire to buy as gifts, etc. Add the trip to Trujillo and I can see why the vast majority of folks here have not travelled far from Chimbote, and certainly have not made the 2+ day trip to see Macchu Picchu. One parent during a visit, hearing that Nicole and Emily were headed there, sighed wistfully and commented that she had only seen it on TV.

- Finally, I think the less-structured perception of time and spontaneity (sometimes could be called a lack of organization) here is actually good for me in a lot of ways. I find myself less concerned about having everything done perfectly, trusting more that I will be able to adapt in the moment -- since this is what happens many times anyway. I think I still would enjoy starting more on time (we start no more than five minutes late for our English class), but in general the environment (and not being in charge) is helping me to go about my tasks and commitments in a more relaxed manner.

Well, I will try to add one more entry before Christmas, which we will spend with the parents and two brothers of Nicole and Emily. They both are staying in Lima one additional night in order to meet their family at the airport, and then coming back up to Chimbote on the 22nd. I wish you a blessed week.

Monday, December 10, 2007

Paseos, Visitas, y una Semana Ocupada

Hello everyone!

Note: New photos are posted which you can see using the link at the right.

If you are guessing from the delay in this blog update that I have become a little bit busier, you would be right! Here are some highlights and reflections on life since I last wrote:

- Though we had a feeling it would happen sooner or later, it was still shook us up a bit that Nicole was robbed as she and Emily were walking to the Hospice for work a week ago Saturday. She is okay and wasn`t hurt, but the guy got away with her neck chain and its religious medals. We are all thinking more about what we are carrying (or appear to be carrying) when we go out, taking as little as possible. Sr. Juanita tells us that this time of hear, with Christmas coming up, is the worst time for theft and that we should be careful. She herself has been robbed 6-7 times in her 11 years here, and says it makes her mad each time. Coupled with what seems like increased harrassment toward Nicole and Emily when they go out (especially on Sundays, when many of the men are free from work and somewhat intoxicated in the streets), they are feeling a bit tired of being so much in the public eye, of not being able to be anonymous. There are people who try to help, and many of our friends are sure to walk us home especially at night, but we are definitely aware and watchful when we go out.
- On a lighter note, we three joined about 45 jovenes (youth and young adults) from the parish for a paseo (outing) last Sunday to a park out in the country about a half hour. We got a late start, not surprisingly, but enjoyed the tranquilo day of group games/competitions, soccer, and volleyball. Nicole impressed all the guys with her soccer prowess. I helped plan the event as part of the youth council, and the striking difference between here and the US were the economics -- we managed to feed 50 people for about 45 soles ($15) on fried rice. We brought a huge pot of it (the food delayed the departure) and everyone brought a plate and spoon, even some china. We had the goal of helping the youth already participating in some of the various parish groups to get to know each other better, and I think the outing was successful and the weather (except for some mosquitos early on) was perfect. I also enjoyed the opportunity to talk with some youth that I hadn`t known before.
- This week I began at last our project of visiting youth in their homes, beginning with meetings with some of the eight coordinators of the eight parish sectors. In a couple neighborhoods we have already made one outing of visits. The first was a small sector in which the coordinator knew all the Catholic families, and we were well received by the youth/families we spoke with. I will meet with a group of the young people this Sunday to talk with them about what they would like to see/do as a parish and as a sector in terms of youth activities. In the second sector, the visit went differently -- a bit humurous in retrospect but a little frustrating at the time. The coordinator had forgotten about our appointment, so I had to wait for her to shower and get ready after her siesta. Also, though I had suggested 2 or 3 people max, our group was to consist of 5 (myself, three short older ladies, and one husband -- who ended up not coming after all). Also, though they have lived in the neighborhood for more than 30 years, they were as lost (or more so) as I was in finding the streets and houses for the addresses I had. To shorten the story, we spent a couple hours wandering by foot and taxi and ended up talking with two parents and two youth. STill, a start. And, overall, I think I will really enjoy this part of my ministry here, to talk on an individual basis with youth and families to help them feel welcome in the parish and to invite their suggestions and participation. Yesterday I attended mass at the chapel in our largest sector, 2 de Mayo, and met several folks after mass who either have youth or are interested in helping with our projects.
- I participated in my first two choir rehearsals, though I have yet to really learn the guitar songs due to not having the lyrics and chords. I am scheduled to have some introduction to that this week by the choir director. Still, it is an animated group (at times to the frustration of the director :)) and we rehearse in the living room of a parishioners home near the parish. Our rehearsals are 9:30-11:00 pm Friday and Saturday night, which is a little unbelievable for me. I may not be able to long term make the commitment due to other ministry activities at the parish, but I am going to give it a shot.
- English class is going well. I have located some helpful lesson plan ideas online and we are also now offering a Friday night conversation session in our home from 7-9 for anyone in the class desiring opportunity to practice. We have 12-15 attending the Monday-Thursday classes and 7-8 coming on Fridays.
- Saturday Nicole, Emily and I took advantage of their day off (national holiday for the Immaculate Conception) and took a paseo to Trujillo, a couple hours north of here. The architecture is more colonial and the city a bit cleaner than Chimbote, and we saw significantly more tourists. We attended mass at the Cathedral, had a couple good meals, visited the pre-Inca ruins of Chan-Chan outside of town, and walked/relaxed a couple hours on the beach at the small nearby town of Huancacho. We met a dog there who loved to dig and fetch, and his owner is a doctor from the US who moved there two years ago to open a restaurant. All in all a good getaway.
- I am somewhat in charge of directing a Christmas play with the post-Confirmation group, and developed a script from online Spanish bible sources and material from Fr. Carlos that combines the story of the first Nativity Scene (tradicion begun by St. Francis) and the Biblical narrative of the prophets and the gospels. We will put it on a couple times before Christmas, on the 22nd at a show for parish children and the 23rd or 24th for the parish at large.
- Christmas is coming, and we see a smattering of lights in house windows and some downtown stores selling solely Christmas decor. Nicole and Emily bought a 2-foot tree for our living room and a couple strings of lights, which help add a little Christmas feel to our home. I think because I associate Christmas with being home with family and know that this year I won`t be (for the first time), I do find myself missing home a bit more. Still, I do look forward to experiencing the celebration of Christmas here. And the Tardio family -- parents and both brothers -- are also joining us here for the holiday, after which they will travel to Cusco and Macchu Piccu.
- Sometimes two years seems like a long time, but I also have been struck by periodic moments of beauty and peace here (like the beautiful late afternoon volleyball game with youth on the paseo -- we had no net but a lot of fun and laughter) that I am very grateful for. My spanish is definitely improving, which is exciting, though listening still is tough. I have hope for the good that I can offer and receive here, and in my good moments I do believe that God can take my imperfect efforts and help them bear fruit.

Well, its time to head home before I have to go to English class. Thanks for your perseverance in making it to the end of this lengthy entry, and I wish you a blessed Advent.

Friday, November 30, 2007

Some new photos

I meant to add some photos of Ecuador and Confirmation with my last entry, but my camera and the computer weren´t communicating well. They are now posted, see the photo link at right.

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Ecuador y Sacramentos

Greetings from Chimbote!
I wrote last week just prior to our trip to Ecuador -- and we made it there and back safe and sound. Though the bus trip was long (15 hours including immigration stops) the bus was the nicest I`ve ever been on, more like traveling on the train in terms of space to stretch out. Also, there was a bathroom on board and decent meals were served. Though the majority of the trip both ways was at night, I did get a picture of what the north coast of Peru is like. The terrain and climate continue quite dry most of the way, at times quite desolate with exception of a sleepy (it was 7:00 am) beach town of Mancora. As we neared the border of Ecuador, however, the humidity increased significantly and more plant life was in evidence. Except for paying an unexpected fine upon leaving Peru for overstaying our visas (we thought we`d received an extension), the exit/entry went smoothly on the way up. Machala, our destination, was described in the guidebook as the `Banana Capital of the World´, though we missed the late-September Banana Festival with the Banana Queen beauty pageant. Indeed, banana plantations lined the highway for the final hour or so of the trip. It turns out that our bus wasn´t actually scheduled to stop in Machala, which lies a few miles off the Pan American highway. So, instead of arriving at a bus terminal we were dropped rather quickly at a gas station, the attendant pointing to the left to indicate the direction of Machala. Fortunately, we joined up with a couple young travels from Britain to take a cab to the city center and then took another cab to the Consulate of Peru where our visas were waiting. We arrived at 1;20, just as the last employee was leaving for lunch, so we waiting for a couple hours in a pleasant nearby park, and then waiting a couple more hours in the office before everything was okay with our visas. We found a motel in Machala near the green, attractive central plaza and ate pretty good pizza for dinner, and began our trip back the next morning. A few reflections on the journey:
- Machala was at least one level up economically from Chimbote -- cleaner, more paved streets, and more private cars.
- The official currency of Ecuador is the US $, so it was weird to spend dollars again for a day.
- The markets were bustling but a bit less chaotic than in Chimbote -- more permanent stalls, fruit stacked nicely, etc.
- We saw our first Christmas decorations of the season in Machala, both for sale in stores and hanging various places, including a Santa Claus printed with `Merry Christmas´ on our hotel room door. We hadn`t seen any sign of Christmas in Chimbote, though a few small traces have appeared this week. Maybe the increase US influence and/or higher economic level of Machala increased the Christmas commercialism there.
- Machala seems a bit more ethnically diverse than Chimbote, with small but significant black population and a larger number of people with stronger indigenous roots.
- The heat was more intense, made worse by the high humidity. The benefit of this was a lot more greenery and less dust.
- When I got off the bus with other travelers to go through exit procedures at the Ecuadorean border, I grabbed my bag but left my pillow and fleece jacket, thinking it would be a quick off and on. To my surprise, as I disembarked the bus promptly pulled away to drop off/pick up passengers at a nearby town. Though the bus returned, by pillow and jacket didn`t. A bit frustrating but not a huge loss -- summer is coming anyway :).
- We had a several hour layover in Tumbes, Peru, a half hour from the border. The food was cheap (soup, chicken, rice and beans for three of us for $4 total), the plaza there was quite impressive and the town overall a bit more developed than Chimbote, including a raised promenade along the river. There was an anniversary celebration for a local school, including an exposition of student arts and crafts. The young people, primary and secundary, loved talking with us, showing us their work, and asking questions about English and the United States. I took a walk around town and when I returned a crowd of at least ten youth were crowded around Nicole and Emily, who were obviously a bit tired from the extended Spanish.
- We now have an official religious visa and have 30 days to do the paperwork for our Carnet, or residency card. We will need to travel to Lima in December for a couple days to complete the process.

The second part of this entry concerns the events of first communion and Confirmation at the parish, both of which were held this past Sunday (10 am First Communion, 7:30 pm Confirmation). I assisted in a more-or-less crowd control capacity for both events, as well as assisting with pre-ceremony Confirmation preparations and attending the `compartir` afterwards. This after celebration had the same joy and smiles of the parallel gathering in Corvallis, except that here they served tamales, brought out a radio and had a dance. Also similar to Corvallis -- I was there to the end (though not the only one) sweeping and cleaning up :).

I feel significantly this week a combination of being very glad to be here (two months as of two days ago) as well as missing family and friends with the holiday season upon us. I wish you a wonderful season of Advent!

The second